Water pump

Good plan

Not much. Obviously keep an eye on the water level though. In the longer term, water leaking into the bearing will knacker it, with a slight chance of it seizing, but this is really quite unlikely.

Check the gasket at the top, sometimes the pump doesn't get pryed up to the head properly so the gasket doesn't seal and it leaks. If it's leaking from the shaft then replace the pump, it's fairly straightforward.

I have to jump in on this thread to ask: is it possible (or worthwhile) to simply tighten the bolts on the pump when the pump leaks at the gasket? I suspect that it may have been used as leverage to pry things when adjusting/changing belts recently and thus dislodged or moved.

Are the engine mounts for the pump too soft or delicate for a quarter-turn?

Thanks, Blurp

On Sun, 16 Nov 2003 19:24:30 GMT, the illustrious "James Sweet" favored us with the following prose:

The waterpump has two "gaskets". One large vertical gasket between the pump body and the front of the cast iron engine block. If it leaks there you could possibly try tightening the nuts a bit. Most likely you need a new gasket.

An outlet from the pump goes straigt up into the cylinder head. There is a rubber ring there which needs the pump to press upward againt the head in order not to leak. For this reason the bolt holes in the pump body are oval. You loosen the nuts holding the pump. Then pry the pump upwards with a suitable tool. Tighten nuts while still prying. If this smaller rubber ring starts leaking you could in theory loosen the pump and increase its upward pressure towards the rubber ring. With an old gasket against the block, I think it will start leaking there instead.

My recommendation: If it leaks from either gaskets, buy both the ring and the large gasket. Remove pump and scrape away all gasket pieces. Replace rubber ring and gasket and perform the prying/tightening procedure as above. If you are unsure of the source of the leak, get a new pump while at it. They don't cost a fortune (not here in Sweden at least).

They don't cost a fortune anywhere, but they certainly aren't as cheap as in Sweden, I envie the cheap cost of Volvo parts there.

There's also a little gasket of sorts on the heater hose that can get sliced upon installation.

The gaskets aren't that expensive.. as long as you avoid the dealer. I think that the dealer here wanted about $15 for the one that sits between the block and the water pump. Ouch. You can find the whole set for about $3 online.

- alex

'85 244 Turbo

Certainly try to tighten not excessive though, but I would just change the gasket and the head seal and get it over with as tightening it is more likely not to work. Good Luck Joe

You could try tightening to the torque limit for the water pump attachment bolts (see manual for torque values for bolts/nuts).

Cheers, Peter.

: > Are the engine mounts for the pump too soft or delicate for a : > quarter-turn? : >

: > Thanks, : > Blurp : >

: Certainly try to tighten not excessive though, but I would just change the : gasket and the head seal and get it over with as tightening it is more : likely not to work. : Good Luck Joe : :

if it is like the pump on the 240 and earlier engines there is that rubber ring at the top of the pump. I have seen those leak.

in my experience if the pump goes it usually comes out out the hole in the bottom of the rounded part that juts out , leaks out by the shaft. you probably can't see the hole , but if you feel underneath you may find it, directly under the shaft for the pump.

so if it is wet near the top of the pump I would suspectt he rubber ring. if its the pump itself, the top of the pump may be dry. if it hits the fan it might go all over making it harder to tell.

it depends on how much time / money you have , as said earlier you may want to relpace the pump, depending on how old it is. phil

Ok, then, here's another question: is it possible to replace the gasket without removing the clutch fan etc? I mean, can you undo the bolts and lift off the pump enough to slip a fresh gasket in and bolt it back on without taking everything else out? I am trying to find an image of the part to get an idea where the bolts are located and if they're accessible. My Chilton Labour Guide says 2.3 hours shop time but I haven't had it long enough to know if it considers shortcuts that might finish the job more quickly.

I'm guessing I just have to bite the bullet and pay for the work.

Thanks all, Blurp

On Sat, 22 Nov 2003 07:28:08 +1030, the illustrious "Joe" favored us with the following prose:

That's probably possible, but you'd never get the surface clean enough so the new gasket would seal properly. And it would waste more time with the poorer access to everything else.

It is possible (I had to do this on my sedan when the nuts wouldn't come off the studs), but it's hardly a short cut. Lots of swearing, banging, and pulling on the water pump. The fan doesn't get in the way, but the pulley does.

Really, pulling the water pump is pretty easy. Just pull the fan/shroud, and you're done.

- alex

'85 244 Turbo

You might want to try some of the silicon gasket stuff you can buy....pull out the old gasket and squirt some of the stuff from the tube in.... do not remember exactly what the name is...

When I have used it, I tighten the bolts down until the stuff squeezed out....then left sit overnight, to harden well...and tightened down about one/two turns more.....

Once used it on a pump that I had lost the gasket for....worked well....

good luck....steve

blurp wrote: