Advice needed re: replacing A3 brakerotors and strut mounts.

I just took my '98 Jetta TDI (w/ 87k miles) to Firestone for a maintenance inspection to get my annual PA state inspection sticker (after getting cited yesterday for it being expired). They denied passing my vehicle and found (surprise, surprise...) that the following needed immediate correction:

1) streaking windshield wiper blade 2) a burned out driving light 3) front brake rotors are thin & need replacing 4) front strut mounts need replacing

To correct these items they are asking a mere $561.68, which (surprise, surprise...) I find unacceptable.

I would like fix these items myself. The first two are easy, the 3rd I haven't done before but I have replaced the pads once and I assume I can do the rotors myself if they aren't too rusted to the wheel hubs.

But I'd like the groups advice on the following:

-Does it really make a difference if I buy a cheap pair of new rotors from says PEP Boys vs. the OEM ones from the VW dealer? (I don't think I'll have time to mail order these items from Impex, etc.)

-I've never done any suspension work before, but from reading the Bentley manual, it appears that I'll need 3 new tools (VW524 for the top retaining nut, the VW3078 for the flange nut on top of the strut, and a spring compressor) just to replace the $2.87 strut mount bushings. Is there any way around this? Should I go ahead and replace the strut bearing as well while everything is disassembled? Should I consider getting new shock absorber inserts too? Also, why can't I just use a regular 21mm /22mm socket instead of the open wall specialty tool VW3078?

I'd like to learn these new repairs as I plan to keep this car for a long time and will likely need to replace the shocks in the future (& thus perhaps justify the tool purchases), but I'm short on time, I don't have a indoor workspace (and more rain is forecasted) and don't know how involved these repairs might become. It seems strange that I have to remove the entire strut assembly just to replace the mounts!

The good news is, at least I bought a lifetime alignment from Firestone awhile ago!

Any other advice for these repairs for shadetree mechanic would be appreciated. If some knows of an online FAQ w/ pictures that'd be great too. I Google-searched but didn't find much.

Thanks!

Reply to
intiandes2000
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For my A2 I found that the Pep-boys and VW were priced about the same. I got the OEM ones. I worried that the screw that holds the rotors to the hub would be a pin to get out, but that was not a problem at all. It is important that you don't get any kind of rust and debris stuck between the hub and the new rotor. I cleaned up the hub with a Scotch-brite type scouring pad (dry) before putting on the new rotors.

Reply to
Randolph

#4 I don't think they would know what "BAD" really is. If they are replacing them for up & down play while the car is on the rack once replaced the new ones will have the same play. It's just the way they are designed!

Reply to
Woodchuck

Uh, oh. Treat the windshield with Rain-X ;-)

Tough one.

A rubber mallet will 'loosen' that rust.

In my experience, no.

An air wratchet will remove the upper strut nut without the cut-out tool. You'll notice that the top of the insert has a 6mm allen--that's what the open wall tool is for. If the suspension hasn't been replaced in some time, it'll be tough removing that nut without air or the tool. The upper strut mount (not just the bearing) is what you want to replace if they've properly diagnosed the problem. Probably ~$30.

Follow this link for instructions on removing the springs without a compressor. I have NOT tried it (my springs are lowering and cut such that I don't need a compressor ;-)

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If you're gonna use the tools in the future, buy them (rent the spring compressor if you go that route). If you're in Kitchener, Ontario, a few beers and they're yours for the day. =-) I take 30 min. + one beer a side to replace the insert and any other required hardware. For the a, perhaps 1-2 hours.

Darryl.

Reply to
Darryl

Hi,

Check out this link to get you started:

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Also check the other DYI stuff from there ,very helpful.

As for the strut mounts , a 22mm socket will work but the trick is to not let the strut shaft spin . If you notice there is a hex hole on the shaft that is meant for an allen key. That special tool is nothing more than an open ended socket that is turned with a wrench while holding the allen key through the center and stopping the shaft from spinning. There are a couple of ways around this. You may just get lucky and the bolt will loosen with out problems, You could make your own tool by filing down the sides of a deep 22mm socket so that it can be turned with wrench or use an impact wrench which just zip the nut right off. What I have done in the past is to use a pair of vise grips on the strut shaft up inside the wheel well to hold it while i worked on the top nut. You have to use caution so as not to mar the shaft where it will travel in the strut . a pair of spring compressors will be needed as well as jack stands, safety first. There will be a slotted nut that needs to be removed to get the strut mount off. I did not use the VW special tool here either . A few taps with a nail set in the nut grooves and the nut came loose. Assemble is just the reverse You will need an alignment when you are done .

As for the brakes . The minimum width of a rotor is 10mm I believe so the first thing to do is make sure that you actually need the rotors. Assuming that you i would just get new ones at Pep boys or PartsBin.com might as well get new pads at the same time . I think that you will have to remove a bracket from the wheel to get the rotor off , no big deal but the bolts will be tight as hell you'll need a cheater pipe to aid your leverage. The screw that holds the rotor on can be a pain , the above site gives some good advise on how to deal.If it breaks off you can without or have a couple ready from the dealer.

If you need any help , email me an I'll try to help. As for Firestone , all I can say is that at best they are guilty of a conflict of interest. I once spent 4 hours waiting for tires to be mounted a a local Firestone shop here in Connecticut and believe when I say that they tried to up sell every single customer that went past me . It was like a comedy . the service manager would come out with a grave look on his face followed by a service tech and they would explain how they found this problem or that while doing an oil change or whatever . Every single person! I really can't understand how the States can give so much power to these independent shops to do inspections. What do they think will happen.

Reply to
John

Follow up:

First of all, thanks to John, Woodchuck, Daryl, & Randolph for taking the time to reply with detailed & excellent advice. I learned quite a bit reading over the info. you guys provided. To sum things up, I ended up buying new OEM rotors, strut mounts & bearings, light bulb & wiper inserts at VW (gouge & ouch! #1) because I had no time to wait for less expensive mail order and figure I wanted to reassurance that the parts were quality vs. autostore cheapies. At least these parts were significantly cheaper than what Firestone estimated for their parts.

For other DIYers out there, I found a spring compressor at Harbor freight for $10 (Advance Auto was selling their set for $30). I also bought a deep 22mm O2 sensor socket with an "open window" for the 7mm allen wrench at Advance auto for $10 (most online VW tool sellers were charging $45+ for this!).

Last night in the rain under streets lights, I jacked the car up on stands, removed the wheels, sprayed the rotor retaining screw w/ liquid wrench & smacked it a few times, then a while later used a proper sized phillips screwdriver to unscrew the rotor screw. Both screws dished out like butter in the first turn! I pounded in a slothead and tried again, but again the soft screw metal just dished into a gripless hole. I tried loosening the caliper mounts with a wrench and also found that they were on VERY tight. As the rain fell, I realized how many things could go wrong if more bolt heads sheared and required drilling out. With no easy out in tool kit, plus the possibility of more hassle removing the struts, and the fact that I had to have the car operating later today, I did the cowardly shadtree mechanic retreat and took the car back to Firestone this morning for the labor and repair (gouge & ouch! #2).

I just didn't have the time or adequate workspace to feel confident that I'll get the job done quickly. I asked for Firestone to keep the old parts so I can at least inspect the strut mounts (there was some horizontal play when I had the car jacked up) and have them re-measure the rotors with a caliper in front of me that confirm that they did actually need replacing. [They listed one as .699 and the other as .693 (minimum spec is .709).]

The sad thing is that I felt confident doing this repair if I had more time (and perhaps a spare car to take more trips the tool store if necessary). Oh well, perhaps next time. Sometimes a battle is lost in winning a war. Meanwhile, thanks again for all the advice.

Reply to
intiandes2000

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