Can't adjust clutch?

Yes, this happened on my 1987 GTI, and I think it's fairly common on A2 VWs built during this time. A weld on the pedal bracket fails, causing a gradual distortion of the bracket until the clutch is inoperable. The failure can be quite subtle at first, causing one to believe that the clutch cable is just out of adjustment. At some point the clutch cable reaches the limit of adjustment or the pedal bracket catastrophically fails. This is what happened to mine. Maybe a long-shot, but a close inspection of the spot welds on the pedal bracket with a flashlight should reveal if you have this problem.

As I recall, replacement of the pedal bracket involved a bit of disassembly, but the new part can be had for about $73 (unless you go to the dealer, where it will cost substantially more).

||Yes, this happened on my 1987 GTI, and I think it's fairly common on A2 VWs ||built during this time. A weld on the pedal bracket fails, causing a gradual ||distortion of the bracket until the clutch is inoperable. The failure can be ||quite subtle at first, causing one to believe that the clutch cable is just ||out of adjustment. At some point the clutch cable reaches the limit of ||adjustment or the pedal bracket catastrophically fails. This is what ||happened to mine. Maybe a long-shot, but a close inspection of the spot ||welds on the pedal bracket with a flashlight should reveal if you have this ||problem. || ||As I recall, replacement of the pedal bracket involved a bit of disassembly, ||but the new part can be had for about $73 (unless you go to the dealer, ||where it will cost substantially more).

Can you get in there with a MIG and weld it in place? Texas Parts Guy

I have changed many broken pedal brackets (over 6 in different A2s) in the past, and they were not expensive from the dealer. Of course the price may have gone up since the last one I bought there! ;-)

IHMO the brackets usually break because they are weak to start with and then if they is too much resistance in the clutch cable due to possibly a stiff cable. Over time this fatigues/stresses the bracket and the bracket cracks! So if you need too much effort to press the clutch pedal down, then PLEASE change the clutch cable, or at least lube it up. A broken bracket can also affect the brake pedal operation. :-(

Clutch Release Plate, Clutch Disc/Pressure Plate/Flywheel Kit Clutch Release Pushrod and bushing. Release Bearing Release Bearing Arm Clutch Cable Pedal Bracket.

These are possibilities off the top of my head! good luck.

later, dave Reminder........ Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way, when you criticize them, you are a mile away from them, and you have their shoes. Frieda Norris

As I recall, my pedal bracket didn't actually fail in the weld, but rather cracked in the area around the weld. I'm not a welder, but it seems to me that it would be difficult to weld in place due to limited access, and you'd need to get all the paint and crud off so as not to contaminate the melt. Also, I think that there can be substantial distortion of the bracket before the owner realizes he has a significant problem. Considering the safety issues with the brake pedal, it's probably best to just install a new bracket.

I guess saying that the pedal bracket will cost "substantially more" at the dealer may have been a little too strong. When I replaced mine in June 1994, I paid $85 + tax at my friendly neighborhood VW dealer in the Los Angeles area. I haven't checked the dealer price recently, but my bet is that it's over $100 by now. I can buy the same part today from my favorite web source for $75. In my opinion, it's never a bad bet to assume that the dealer will be the highest cost option when comparing prices on parts of comparable quality.

I'm not bucking for a flame here or anything, but is a list of just about every component in a VW clutch likely to provide any diagnostic value to this chap? Since you seem to be one of the more experienced folks here, I'll assume your wife was calling you to dinner and you were in a rush to complete the post.

Referring to the original post, it sounds like the clutch operates normally except for the fact that the cable is at the limit of its adjustment. And he has replaced the clutch cable, so baring an installation goof, it seems to me that the clutch cable as a possible source of the problem can come off the list.

And isn't it true that the typical failure mode for the clutch release lever is a catastrophic fracture that yields the clutch completely inoperable? Although this lever is an unlikely cause of the problem described, it can be easily checked with the transaxle in the car by prying the cap off the end of the transaxle (accessed through the wheel-well; you'll probably need to buy a new $5 cap though). The release bearing and pushrod can also be easily checked in this manner. Three more items can come off the list with little fuss and expense.

The clutch pack itself is a bit more difficult to check as it requires removal of the transaxle. But I'd start with the relatively easy diagnostic stuff (i.e., the pedal bracket, clutch release lever, release bearing, and pushrod) before yanking out the transaxle to check the clutch pack.

Yes you are right Kent.............Just trying to cover ALL possibilites that could cause his problem and there are so many possibilities that could cause this problem. Oh wouldn't it be horrible if the problem was caused by something that I did not mention!!! lol

I have seen people install A1 clutch cables in their A2 vehicles, or at least try to! ;-) I have also seen some NEW clutch cables break quickly too! :-( I think Bentley might indicate what position the clutch release lever should be in just as it causes the pushrod to touch the release plate.

The clutch release lever might be cracked but still might give the impression that it is still working properly. :-)

And yes I agree about checking all components that are easy to check first. I think with a helper the OP might see what is stretching or breaking when the clutch pedal is pressed down.

I am curious about what the problem is!

later, dave Reminder........ Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way, when you criticize them, you are a mile away from them, and you have their shoes. Frieda Norris

After a quick read, I didn't notice mention of the release bearing mechanism. I've seen the arm that depresses the release bearing crack and result in the same problem that you're having. You can lower the ds of the tranny, remove and replace the 5th gear cap without removing the tranny.

Darryl.

Kent,

Can you tell me where the bracket normally fails? I thought I had read something about that years ago, but I couldn't track anything down now. I took a brief look at the lower part of the bracket when I was changing the clutch cable and didn't see anything wrong. Looked like the lower part of the bracket fit over a pin and is held in place with a circlip. I couldn't see the upper part of the bracket and didn't have the time to dig in further. I did think the bracket moved around a bit more than I thought it should though, at least compared to my old 1976 Rabbit.

Does anyone online sell the brackets?

Thanks,

Anthony

It's been 10 years since I changed my pedal bracket, and I didn't keep the old part. I'm looking at the picture of the bracket in my Bentley manual bust can't quite remember the specific location of the crack. I do remember, though, that the crack occurred near one of the spot welds, and it was hard to see when installed in the car. Sorry I can't be of more help.

I think it's interesting that you mentioned that your pedal bracket seems to "move around a bit"; it probably shouldn't, so this might be a clue to your problem. One of the other posters ("Dave" I think) mentioned that the bracket failures are caused by overstressing of the bracket due to a stiff clutch cable. This sort of jogged my memory about how my bracket failed. The overstress condition can cause the bracket to distort, and the only clue at first may only be the need to overadjust your clutch cable (as I did). Eventually the distortion can become more and more pronounced, and if you cluelessly ignore it (as I did), the bracket will eventually crack, causing an unsafe situation. I don't want to alarm you, though, because I allowed mine to get pretty seriously distorted before it finally failed.

I didn't mention the web source of the pedal bracket in my earlier post since I don't want to sound like a paid endorsement for my favorite parts source. But since you ask, Adirondack

stocks the pedal bracket for your car for $72.45. In their online catalog, look under Volkswagen>Jetta>Transmission>Bracket, Pedal Cluster. I've ordered a significant number of parts from these folks and couldn't be more impressed with how they conduct business. If you decide you need a new bracket (or any other parts), I recommend you check them out.

Good luck.

Anthony, If you find out that it is the bracket under the dash that is broke, then the following woud help. Good Luck, Butch

"You have discovered that you need about 2" more adjustment to make your clutch disengage. Hopefully you discover this before you replace the entire clutch assembly. More than likely what has happened is the steel "Tube" that is welded to the top of the bracket that supports the clutch and brake pedal, has broken off of that bracket, which is up under the dash. The weld is pretty poor and is the weak link in this whole set up. If you have a Chiltons or Bentely manual, there is a good diagram showing where this "Tube" is located. This "Tube" is supposed to support the outer clutch cable housing, so that when the clutch is depressed, the outer housing stays stationary and only the inside cable moves. When this "Tube" breaks away from the pedal bracket, the whole cable assembly moves when you push the clutch in. When this happens, the clutch will not disengage and it will seem as though the cable need about 2" or more adjustment. Of course no matter how much you adjust the clutch it will make very little difference if any at all.

The Dealer, as well as many Garages fix for this is to remove the clutch and brake pedal assembly from the firewall, along with the steering column and re-weld the "Tube" on to this bracket. (which is a pretty poor design in the first place) The cost in my area for this is anywhere from $250/00 to $400.00 depending on where you go and how hungry the guy is. The part that I make, sells for $40.00 and should be able to be installed in a half hour at most, with little mechanical ability, no disassembly of the clutch / brake assembly and no special tools at all. It is fully machined from a solid aircraft aluminum billet, and fits over the end of the clutch cable housing, where it goes through the firewall. It prevents the clutch cable housing from being pulled through the firewall when the clutch is depressed, as it does now with the "Tube" broken from its weld. Normal clutch adjustment can be made again. You will save at least $200.00 and comes with a lifetime guarantee for material and workmanship, try to get that from the dealers repair. This would also be a good time to replace the clutch cable while you have it apart. If you decide to replace the original bracket with an inadequate OEM part, the part is about $70.-$80. plus a couple hours of work, and it will more than likely fail again."

wow I am curious.................got a picture? I have seen an Audi 4000 Quattro's clutch master cylinder (with hydraulic clutch system) even tear through the firewall due to a very stiff/old pressure plate. Usually I have found that the clutch cable is the culprit with the bracket breaking.

thanks and later, dave Reminder........ Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way, when you criticize them, you are a mile away from them, and you have their shoes. Frieda Norris

Dave,

Sorry I don't have a photo of this installed, allthough I should. The part that I make takes the pressure off of the "Broken Bracket" and puts it on the firewall. Which in my opinion is where it should have been in the first place, not a half assed spot welded bracket stuck up under the dash. The firewall, which is one of the srongest support members in the car, has more than enough strength to support the clutch cable. After all the master cylinder is on the firewall and it takes a lot more abuse that the clutch cable, especially under panic stops.

I came up with this idea, when this bracket broke on my daughters 88 cabriolet. It happened in Ocean City Md. on Labor Day weekend and I had to drive it home. Driving 150 miles in stop and go traffic, gives you a lot of time to figure out how things work and how to improve it. Basically the same thing could be accomplished with the correct Inside Diameter flat washers, stacked up to the correct thickness. It just has to prevent the outside section of the clutch cable from being pulled through the firewall when depressing the clutch. My part has all of the trial and error allready worked out and has a finished look to it. I wish I would have figured the washer thing out before driving 150 miles without a clutch, allthough by the time I got home I was pretty good at it.

I'm not making a living on these, but over the past 12 years I have sold just over 100 pcs, mainly VW Dealers and a couple of local garages that specialize in VW and Audi and I have yet to have one return for any reason. Hope I could be of some help

Thanks, Butch

sounds good Butch! :-) thanks

later, dave Reminder........ Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way, when you criticize them, you are a mile away from them, and you have their shoes. Frieda Norris

Jim B.