[First of all, we're talking about a 1999 VW Jetta SR5 with less that
14000 miles.] Well, the "epoxy fix" ended one problem, but the check
engine light is back on after being cleared. The code was a P1128, which
someone in this group translated to be "Long Term Fuel Trim B1 System
Too Lean." I did some further internet digging and found that that error
code could be caused by six different things (none of which I
understand). As with medical problems, I sought a second opinion at
Autozone today. The results on their Actron meter is: P-1128
"Manufacturer Control Fuel and Air Meter", or as the fellow that helped
me said: "Tell them its the 'Mass Air Meter.'"
So -- after I tell my mechanic that, can I suggest something that will
clear the problem without replacing the unit? After all, he was glad to
hear about the epoxy fix for the ignition coil.
do all of the easy and cheap checks first..............look for vacuum leaks
and then check the other components!
You might need to purchase the tool/interface so you can read the codes
better and check components on your Jetta yourself. It will pay for itself
on just this repair! <g>
Ok, all you smarty pants-es. My shrink tells me that when I say that, I
display an intense longing for a time when I owned the best car in the
world, and at the same time my utter contempt for the VW that I
Make that VR-6 !!
Thanks for the links, Dave, but my Win95 computer doesn't like them and
tells me that "the program has committed a fatal error" and closes the
browser when I try and link to those sites. Will probably have to wait
until next Monday when I can try on a more modern computer.
Jim Behning wrote:
On Wed, 16 May 2007 04:58:06 GMT, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Is this an Mk3 or Mk4 body style?
Check all of your vacuum connections, and check them twice! That
particular fault will pop up at the slightest of an intake leak,
commonly on one of the smaller hoses around the intake manifold. Also,
make sure your that your brake booster line(s) are free of cracks on
your visual inspection.
N-80 valve could also be stuck open, allowing excess air into engine.
Not sure on your level of repair experience, but access to a scanner
or vag-com software may help you in isolating a faulty MAF. Might as
well clean it while you're in there.
No idea of body style. Car purchased in July, 1999 -- made in Mexico, if
that tells you anything.
As for repair experience == zero. If it needs fixin, I try and find an
expert to do it (after discussing the problem(s) with the experts in this
You might not agree with my approach, but it works for me. I play the
odds. An 1128 code is one that appears when the mass-airflow sensor
goes bad. They are notorious for going bad, so... They're not
super-expensive, the cheaper one of the two types that are used is
around $75. They're extremely easy to replace by yourself, takes all of
15 minutes. I'd just do it, and not mess around with all the other
possibilities. But then again, I'm kind of reckless that way -- but if
your experience is like mine, the next step will be that the car will
begin to stumble and buck, then will not run at all. You'll replace the
MAF, and it'll run like a top again. All standard disclaimers apply. ;-)
compared to the 2.0l engines the MAF on VR6's have a very, very, very low
failure rate. That said the price on the VR6 MAF is way more. But they do go
bad... The fault(P1128) indicates a possible vacuum leak and the best way to
check is to look at the fuel trim data for idle and cruise mode. If idle is
ok but cruise indicates lean then it's a good chance the MAF is faulty. But
then again if idle and cruise both indicate a lean condition then I would
look for a vacuum leak or sticky purge valve.
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