I decided to replace the parking brake cables in conjunction with some other work on my 1995 VR6 built June 95. The car has Lucas disk rear brakes. Since I did not find a writeup on doing this, I thought I would make one. Did I miss one? Much of what applies to my car would probably apply to other models. Parking brake cable seals tend to break and admit water. This will freeze in cold weather, holding the rear brakes engaged. There is not AFAIK a replacement seal that can be applied later. There may be a way to inject antifreeze. As I unhooked rear of one of my cables, water ran out. However I then saw that the plastic covering on that cable was torn up at one area. Not sure how that happened. I had given up on using the parking brake in winter; I parked in gear. If you are doing the rear brakes anyway. I would recommend replacing the cables, and perhaps the guide tubes. Guide tubes are about $9 each from VW. Guide tubes are bent metal tubes a foot or so long that pass the cables from inside to underneath the car. Cables are about $22 each from a VW dealer, but Adirondack is cheaper if you can wait for shipping.
In replacing these, two 10 mm wrenches, and a long-nose pliers is useful to start. Remove the two plastic disks on the side of the console from behind the front seats. Remove the two screws under those disks. Lift the console up and forward. I wish I knew how to separate the boot from the parking brake lever.
Under the handle are the 10 mm nuts. Put the open wrench on the bigger nut and turn the outer nut with socket or other wrench. Remove the little jam nut. Then unscrew the big nut. Repeat for the other side.
Put the rear of the car on jack stands. Removing the back wheels is a good idea for access and visibility. You can attempt to pull the cable out of the guide tubes from beneath. If you live in an area that does not salt roads, you may be able to just replace the cables. The cables and guide tubes were inseparable in my case. So I just pulled and twisted the tubes and cables out from below. Order those parts if you have not already done so.
The hanger bracket that holds the cable to the chassis, via a dual tinnerman stainless steel bracket, was difficult for me to remove. I ended up doing a lot of prying. Note the position with the brake cables to the outer side of the mount. Note the cable routing to the brake. Remove the cable.
Detach the bracket from the brake cable for reuse. Straighten the bending you did as you were removing the bracket.
Insert the new guide tubes. Note left and right differ. Check from inside to see if they are inserted correctly. There is a little flat on the forward end to position the tube on its axis.
Push/pull the new cable metal center to the rear. I lubed the rubber boot with liquid soap, but it may not be necessary. Carefully hook the brake cable to the brake assembly. Pull the cable forward in the tube once the rear end is in its position. I then used a clamp to hold the end of the cable and the little arm in the forward position to make putting the nut on easier. Shove the free end of the cable into the guide tube. Check that the screw comes thru the plate that the brake handle actuates. Screw the big screw on so that its thread are engaged, putting the rounded end of the big nut to the rear. Do the same to the other side.
Push the stainless steel bracket onto its two screws from beneath.
Adjust the brakes per the Bentley book.
Pull the brake handle up as far as you can. Confirm the plate that connects the two cables with the handle is fairly square. Tighten the jam nuts with a pair of appropriate 10 mm wrenches.
While the console is loose, its a good time to vacuum.
Put the console back, and put the wheels on.