95 Jimmy - replacing cam position sensor??

Hi there,
I need to replace a failing cam position sensor. I have the 95 W series vortec motor. Is this sensor removable/replacable if I pull the dizzy cap
and rotor out or do I need to pull the whole damn thing? Is this a 15min job or something I need an afternoon with a half-dozen beers to complete?
Thanks Andrew.
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Go to autozone.com, repair guides, for help.

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Thanks Shep! I already checked that site out previously but perhaps I missed something. It does make reference to the sensor being in the distributor but I wanted someone who had actually replaced one to comment on how the RE/RE actually panned out.
Thanks again! Andrew.
On 8/14/07 5:39 PM, in article 1187127456 snipped-for-privacy@sp6iad.superfeed.net, "Shep"

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REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1.. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2.. Disconnect the electrical connector from the camshaft position sensor. 3.. Remove the camshaft position sensor retaining screw. 4.. Remove the camshaft position sensor. INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1.. Install the camshaft position sensor. 2.. Install the camshaft position sensor retaining screw, torque to 4-6 Nm (35-53 lb. in.) . 3.. Connect the electrical connector. 4.. Connect the negative battery cable. 5.. Regards, 6.. JR

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Thanks for the info. I read that the sensor being out of whack won't cause drivability problems as it's only intended to pinpoint a particular misfiring cylinder... I was, however, curious if the CEL is on and a code is registered, will this not force the ECM into limp mode anyway and hence cause 'drivability' problems? I suppose 'efficiency and power' problems would be more accurate. Is it possible for the CEL to be on with a code set and not to put the ECM in limp mode? I didn't think it was but I wasn't sure...
Thanks again. Andrew.
On 8/14/07 8:24 PM, in article SIrwi.4$ snipped-for-privacy@news1.epix.net, "JR"

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That code should not force a limp mode condition.

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So I guess there's really no reason to replace it other than wanting to pinpoint a cylinder misfire?? Thanks Shep!
Andrew.
On 8/15/07 7:43 PM, in article 1187221300 snipped-for-privacy@sp6iad.superfeed.net, "Shep"

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If anyone is interested, this is dead easy and took me maybe 40min (it could be done much faster but I had a brown pop in the sun also). The one point I would caution is NOT to unscrew the distributor cap 'retaining arms' (dunno what they're called but they allow the cap to screw down tight. I dropped one of these into the abyss of the engine bay and it held the job back to say the least. The other piece of advice is to slowly cycle the crank with the ignition till the keyed area is inline with the sensor - otherwise you can't remove it easily, at all or without snapping it to bits. As always, if you're tearing out the rotor, reindexing, etc, it's always a good idea to mark the position before removal (I just dragged a marker across it and it worked well). I'm sure that this is all second nature to many of you but if someone shared these thoughts with me, I would have had time for a second beer during this job...
Thanks, Andrew.

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