U-Joints

My mechanic friend and I have come to the conclusion that i need to replace the u-joints on my '99 silverado z71 due to excessive noise (squeeking) and
vibration in the drive line (shakes the whole vehical). and it's not a wheel weight.. it only does it when there is torque on the shaft.. (costing downhill, getting off the gas, it goes away)
I can take it to my friends shop and replace them for $140, let my warranty pay and be out $114 or I can do it myself for about $40 or less.. How hard is it to get the u-joints apart? doable for someone who has the tools and the know how, but never done it? heh. my mechanic friend is going to let me borrow a plug to plug the transmission while the shaft is out.
TIA
Adair
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Not hard at all. But if you do replace them, have the shaft balanced with the new joints. Does the $140 cover balancing?
Cheers

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He didn't mention it.. So I really don't know..... I'll find out..
Adair
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Why? Just draw a line down one side of the shaft so you get it in the exact same orientation as before. If you have any drive line vibes after that, I can scan in the GENERAL MOTORS approved and WRITTEN method of balancing a drive shaft with hose clamps.
GMC Gremlin

replace
and
wheel
warranty
transmission
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Why? Might as well do it right. A balanced shaft will more than double the life of the new Joints. Unless you dont give a rats .... then it'll be good for 20-30k miles or so.

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GM, you know, the people who made the truck, use hose clamps. Which, requires nothing but patience and a screw driver to adjust the clamp. Not to mention, it should already be balanced, so unless he ripped one of em off, he will notice no difference besides a thinner wallet.
GMC Gremlin

(squeeking)
a
(costing
the
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You are on the right track. Don't be suprised if new u-joints don't take care of the whole problem. I saw on a 95 Ford Expedition that replacing the hole drive line with a new one was the only way to correct the problem. They had similar problems, vibration while off the gas going down hill. His warranty covered the $500-600 bill so if you have a warranty maybe take the truck to the dealer and have them look at it too. Make sure that if you put the u-joints in yourself that your warranty isn't voided. Good luck.

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My problem is only evident when you are on the throttle.. letting up or going down hill the vibration goes away.
Adair
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If you read, his problem goes AWAY while not under load.... Replaced the whole drive line, huh? Transmission, transfer case, front & rear drive shafts, and front & rear axles?
Expeditions have SFA right?
GMC Gremlin

replace
and
wheel
warranty
transmission
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lol thats what i was thinking when i read it.. i dont' drive a ford, i drive a chevy.....
hope someone understands me Adair
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wrote in message

Adair,
If you're getting squeaking, you should be able to duplicate this from under the truck, rear wheels off the ground, tranny in neutral. Get under there and try to move the driveshaft up and down, left and right, while holding the driveshaft as close as you can to the u-joints itself. If no noise, rotate the driveshaft 90 degrees and try again. Sooner or later you'll find the angle that's making it squeak.
You can also test the u-joints by yanking the shaft and moving them around. They should move with little effort in every direction (4 ways for front joint, 2 ways for rear joint). Any resistence or rought spots you might find would indicate a fubar needle bearing.
Doc

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Thanks Doc, When the weather warmes up a bit I'm going to crawl under her and have a look around, maybe even go ahead and pull the shaft.. What is the best way to remove and replace the joints themself? I've never done it so this is new to me so any info would be appreciated.
Thanks
Adair
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Adair,
The methods are slightly different depending on the type of u-joint used. Do yours have the retaining clips on the inside or the outside of the bearing cup?
Doc

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Good question, I will check in the morning.
Adair
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