Timing belt question again on the Integra GSR

The Chilton's manual said rotate the crankshaft 3 teeth CW on the camshaft pulley and tighten the adjusting bolt 40 ft. lbs. I'd noticed, depending on
the position of the camshaft, rotating resistance varies. Further, I have the front tires off the ground and spark plugs removed so that might screw up the 3 teeth thing too. So how do you verify for proper belt tension? If belt deflection, than how much? Its a little under 1/2" deflection between the left camshaft pulley and the crankshaft - sounds reasonable? Thanks again in advance.
Is the factory manual much better than the Chilton's?
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** Frank ** wrote:

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The point of rotating the crankshaft is so ALL THE SLaCK will be at the tensioner's side of the 'circuit'. You loosen the adjuster, the spring pulls the tensioner against the belt and you tighten the adjuster. I think it's identical to my CR-V's so it works. Cool part is you can do it with the TB cover on the engine.
I think they mention not to loosen the 14mm nut too much (no more than 1/2 turn) because the whole tensioner will lean sideways and an incorrect adjustment will occur. That's how you get a 'singing timing belt'.
I just looked in the Honda manual... You've got the correct instructions.
'Curly'
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Shitty Chilton manuals.
They've got the rotation BACKWARDS.
You turn the crankshaft COUNTER-clockwise. This is a Honda, not a Ford or Chev.
The way you're turning you risk the crankshaft jumping the belt by a tooth or so. You would be /extremely/ wise to re-verify cam and crank alignment before you ever start the car again or even turn it a full revolution. That GS-R engine is a bit costly to wreck.

"3 teeth" is specificed to make certain all the slack is on the tensioner side of the belt. You don't HAVE to turn the system three teeth, you just need to put the slack in the correct place before letting the tensioner zing into place.

There should be about 1/8" vertical deflection BETWEEN THE CAMS when all the slack is placed on the tensioner side of the belt and the tensioner has zinged home. You can turn the cam pulleys by hand to help put all the slack at the top for measuring.
I have found that sometimes you need to give the tensioner bolt a tap or two with the ratchet while it's loose. This "shocks" the tensioner into tightening the belt a little more. If the belt's too loose, it will slap the underside of the valve cover, leaving rubber powder all over the place.

Yes. On an order of several magnitude.
But then again, you like aftermarket parts that pretend to be "OEM", so you might as well complete the screwup by following an error-filled, shitty aftermarket shop manual.
--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
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Tegger wrote:

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Good thing you caught that, Tegger. It could be the OP just wrote it down incorrectly. Years ago used the Chiltons twice while doing TB's and it served me OK, but I did find errors on the OBDII codes section. In some ways the Chilton's is better for beginners because it doesn't assume you're a trained technician. It explains some things that the Helms omits completely, like how to build your own crank pulley holding tool. 'Curly'
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Thanks for the correction, I did wrote it wrong. It should be CCW not CW.

I did mark the teeth position and spacing on the old belt and transfer it on the new belt so new belt goes in exactly as the old comes out.
I have a big ass drill and connected it to the crank and let her rip CCW - no tooth jump.

Thanks for the advice, I'll check it out.
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