about it. Our Chevy requires premium, as did our Ford before it. We
also have a Maxima, and it runs fine on 87 octane.
The real rule of thumb is this: put in the lower grade; if it pings
under load, go up in octane the next time around.
(cosmetically) than cars not in garages, and you don't have to wax as
often. But you don't have a garage, so it's moot. You might consider a
car cover if it concerns you. At the very least, try to park in the
shade and use a windshield screen.
That being said, I don't think BMWs do any better or worse than any
other car out in the elements.
You mention sale and rebates...These cars sell themselves so I never
found any discounts. Only on ones, they were ready to move off their
I would like to suggest a pre-owned certified or even a non-certified
with low miles from a BMW dealership. (Something still under warranty
or buy an extended warranty if it has higher miles) Most BMW
dealerships care about their reputation and will not sell you a piece
of junk and still get it fixed up prior to putting it on their lot.
My exp was that if it came in on a trade and was not adequate they sent
it to auction rather than putting it on their lot. I just bought my
second BMW...1st was new, second was used. Even though the do hold
their value, it is a nice feeling knowing I'm not taking the hit on
the instant depreciation at drive off.
You may also want to explore leasing, especially if you like to have a
new car every 3 years and don't drive many miles. I agree with
everyone else...once you drive a higher end vehicle, it is hard to go
back to the rest. Just my 2 cents. :-)
If one buys a used car from a dealer, one is likely going to take
that instant depriciation hit. See the difference between "trade in,"
"private party sale" and "suggested retail value." The buyer
probably paid the dealer close to "suggested retail value."
If he/she wants to sell it the next day, the best price they'll
probably get is around the "private party sale" price.
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