Ignition Coil

Is it possible to fry an ignition coil by plugging the ignition wires in the wrong order? I'm running out of ideas out to why my car won't start since I changed the ignition wires. I accidentely pulled out
all the old ones at the sametime instead of replacing them one by one. I tried figuring out where they plugged into the distrubutor cap was probably wrong several times until I bought a TDC whistle. I'm pretty certain they are in order now since I know the firing order and which way the rotor turns. This is a 1981 BMW 320i if that makes a difference. Thanks!
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Most unlikely you've done damage.

You do realise there are two TDC points for each cylinder - only one of these being at the firing point?
You don't need a TDC 'whistle' to find this - just take the plugs out and put a finger over the hole and turn the engine - you'll feel the compression stroke. Then use the timing marks for an accurate setting.
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On Wed, 31 Jan 2007 09:15:26 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"

Seconded. The most impressive thing I've seen it cause is some good backfires and the occasional belch of flame out of the top of a carburetor! (Not recommended!)
Dodgy.
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MUSHROOMS ARE THE OPIATE OF THE MOOSES

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Okay, thanks for the replies. I didn't think it was possible to kill the coil that way. I'm just an idiot and probably used the wrong TDC point. I did try to stick my finger down there before though.
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about something:

I usually hold a drinking straw down the plug hole and turn the bottom pulley with a big socket and bar to get #1 at the top. Other method is put car in highest gear, jack a driven wheel off the ground (chock and support it safely) and then get someone to turn the lifted wheel as you watch the straw.
Remember the piston will come to the top once for top dead centre (when it should get a spark) and once for the top of the exhaust stroke. Suck(down), Squeeze(up), (bang)Power stroke(down), exhaust(up).
Assuming you're got the leads plugged into the dizzy cap in the correct order 1,3,4,2 for a 4 cylinder and 1,5,3,6,2,4 for a 6 cylinder.
For a 4 cylinder - If you have #1 cylinder up the top the rotor arm should be pointing to #1 if you really have the firing stroke (TDC), or #4 if you've got the top of the exhaust stroke.
For a 6 cylinder - If you have #1 cylinder up the top the rotor arm should be pointing to #1 if you really have the firing stroke (TDC), or #6 if you've got the top of the exhaust stroke.
So basically even if you're not sure if you've got TDC or top of exhaust stroke you've only got 2 ways the leads can go... Try it, if they don't work, move them all round on the dizzy cap 180 degrees.
Oh, and last but by no means least, make sure you're going round the dizzy cap the right direction! If you're not sure, take the cap off and get someone to turn the engine over so you know which way the rotor arm goes round! I think it's normally clockwise, but it's been a while since I've had to do this (I now drive a diesel) and I could be wrong!
Hope some of this helps.
Dodgy.
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You don't stick your finger down the spark plug hole - just cover it to make a seal so you can feel the compression.
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Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
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wrote:

if its like the older m10s you can pull the valve cover and line up the notch on the crank pulley with the oil tube too. Since you are in there you might want to adjust teh valves too, if that hasn't been done in a while. Its pretty easy
http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/21/32 /
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If you get access to the valves, they'll be closed on the cylinder on the compression stroke.
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