Rover V-8

I've got an SD1 EFI with a very high mileage engine. Which won't last forever - although it's fine at the moment. Since all these engines are pretty cheap (in relative terms) secondhand I was considering getting a spare and overhauling it ready to swap. Many reckon the 3.9 is the best version - but will the EFI (flapper type) from a 3.5 cope or does it mean changing everything? It's an auto and I'd be wary of using a much larger engine. The cam and top end of mine has been replaced/overhauled so ideally I'd just like to use the block crank and pistons etc from the 3.9. Any gotchas?

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)
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Snip

Dave - I presume you know about Rinner bros and their Indian factory "new old stock" stuff, and were you aware that they now have some new/unused bodyshells? You could build yoursef something spectacular and make us all jealous...

Reply to
Neil McD.

I've snipped my sig too...

Nowt wrong with my present bodyshell and in any case they can generally be repaired quite easily. They're not the rustbuckets some think as regards the structure - it tends to be doors etc that rust badly. And usually through poor protection.

And yes I do know about Rimmer Bros. I probably pay for their champagne at board meetings...;-)

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Dave, I've done this before. You need to raise the fuel pressure to around

42psi then re-calibrate the airflow meter. I have a modified system sitting here - it came off my 3.9 110 when I fitted the 4.7! Badger.
Reply to
Badger

Ah - that sounds good. I'm already using an adjustable regulator and have a new pump standing by, so that should be ok. The re-calibration of the AFM sounds a bit hit or miss though - but I've got a spare.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Std 3.5 pump is ok, no probs there. You need to use a decent CO meter though. Set fuel pressure to 42psi with engine not running and fuel pump relay shorted to allow it to run, prise cover off AFM and you'll see a plastic toothed wheel and a spring-steel locking catch. ease the catch back and tension the spring by turning the wheel roughly 6 notches, start engine and get to normal temp. Adjust idle mixture screw to 1 turn out from fully home then re-adjust spring tension to get a CO of approx. 1.8%, then fine-trim mixture with CO adjusting screw. Finally, re-seal cover onto AFM. That's what I did when going from a 10.5:1 3.5 with a Piper 270/110 cam to a

9.35:1 3.9 with a std cam, it worked perfectly for me. Badger.
Reply to
Badger

Great - thanks.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Same Badger as the DTH throttle bodies and fast Jetta?

Reply to
Doki

Unlikely, never owned a Jetta in my life. It's 4 cylinders short of being a real engine! ;-) Badger.

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Reply to
Badger

Badger you really are a fuckwad if you consider a rover v8 is a *real* engine?

Its about 275 BHP short of being a *real* engine in standard form, even when added the extra 275 BHP and its *still* junk!

Reply to
SuperMatey

Upping the pressure should be a good match to a capacity increase, but if you have trouble with getting the fuelling right then you can always convert to an aftermarket programmable EFi to sort it out. In my 110 V8 Landy I inserted a Vitesse spec V8 (plus Piper cam etc) using Land Rover SUs, but later converted to Holley Commander prgrammable EFi - it saved all the messing about with spring and needles required to set the SUs for a tuned engine. It cost money, but I am pleased to have a programmable fuelling, and at the end of this weekend I should finally have the fully programmable ignition timing too (and I have had the system in for 5 years without getting around to this final step). I admit I did it more to prove I could, than anything else...but it is rather neat to be able to change the system on the move via a laptop, and to use the laptop as a data logger to set it up.

Steve

Reply to
Cheshire Steve

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