Even though I can spray paint and make it look fair, I am not a painter. So
I have a question of things that are probably simple but without trying it,
I have no idea.
What happens if you use a hot lacquer thinner in cold weather? That is a
slow thinner recommended for 70 and up when it is around 60 or 50? I
already know that a fast thinner such as one for 60-80 will flash too fast
at 90 and give the paint a really dry look, so I'm assuming that the
opposite occurs and the paint stays wet longer.
What is the best and what is the easiest way to get a wet look to the paint?
I know if you make the coats heavier, you are supposed to get a wet look but
I can't seem to get the gun to make the coat that heavy unless I move so
slowly it builds thick, but then I'm at danger of runs every few minutes.
Lots of thing go on with the thinner speed, you can get a thicker cover coat
with the fast thinner in cooler temperature. Then wet it down with a 70/30
color mix thin coat with slow thinner. Still needs to lay on smooth, you
can't wet out a sand paper surface, it just levels some orange peel. Test
panels/parts are your friend.
My final coat would have just a hint of the color with clear cut 40/60
Cut your pressure back a few pounds and narrow your fan width a bit to get
it to lay on heavier. Do it like NASCAR changes tire pressure, very small
adjustments. I never subscribed to the heavy coat makes a wet look, a well
applied coat can have a wet look.
Let her sit for a few days and then wet sand for finish and then apply the
finish coat/coats. We used to do that many times before the finish was
acquired that was unbelievable, like that Ferrari thing has. Seldom have I
done a one coat paint job, never could get paint to hang that well. A dark
gray metalic color on my son's pickup went on as one coat without a hitch,
closed the door and came back a day later and never had to touch it other
than unwrap it, good things do happen.
My '50 is now at the paint stage and the Mustang is close, both will be
painted in the spring. I'll have all of the mechanicals and the upholstery
done by then, God willing.
Now this seems like an obvious solution, once you mentioned it. The thinner
it is, the flatter it should flow. The fast thinner should let it go on
thick with running, the slow thinner should let it flow in and level.
Thanks for the tips.
This also seems obvious after you mention it. I may be a slow learner, but
I do learn.
I kept lowering the pressure until I had maybe 25 at the gun. The paint
recommendations were 35-45 psi, so I thought I was too low although it was
coming out better than I did at the recommended pressures.
This also explains why I came out better than I expected at the end. I had
sprayed it a few thin coats, ran out of day, then sprayed another thin coat.
Wet sanded and hit a couple of thin spots, so I went back and sprayed again
after wet sanding the car. Then it was looking pretty decent and wet
sanding after that really got a shine going. Buffing is making it deeper.
Dumb luck made it come out.
The last I had painted was a Suburban in '96 and a Corvette in '92. Both
were by the book on the recommendations of the paint company, and neither
were for something special, just paint. But I have one I'm going to be
painting this winter probably and I want it special. Not show, but just
good looking because it is one I plan to keep, having had it over 25 years
I took a few and you can't tell any difference before or after, other than
before had a chunk of fender missing. Light blue, it could be primer for
all the pictures show. In person, I have a pretty deep shine, but a picture
just looks like flat baby blue.
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