I did find out that Dodge had two sets of O2 sensors in the '04 model year.
(first half were 2.7 ohm second half was ~ 6 ohm)
The aftermarket parts seem to be made for the vehicles manufactured in the
other half of the year.
FWIW I've been through six sets of aftermarket O2 sensors and at least two
sets of OEM direct from the dealer.
Parts last two to 5 days then tilt.
If you use a 2.7 ohm in place of a 6 ohm it will draw too much power.
Using a 6 ohm in place of a 2.7 should not damage either the sensor or
the computer, but it would quite possibly throw a code because the
computer would assume, from the current draw, that the heater had gone
open circuit. Have you actually measured the resistance of the "dead"
Try a 1998 - 2000 Hyundai Tiburon sensor. It is 2.1 ohms cold. Likely
LOTS of other universal O2 sensors that would also fit.
Have you tried 2003 or 2002 Chrysler van?? The 2004 and newer may be
using linear O2 sensors. 1996 to 2003 should all be the same.
Not tried substituting any other year parts as I don't want to buy any parts
that I can't claim warranty. (I've done enough of that as it is)
As to linear O2 Sensors I'm not familiar with that nomenclature and don't
know what if any difference there might be in the various O2 sensor
themselves or what differerence that might make in the problem I'm fighting
I have confirmed that once the O2 sensor comes up to temp (with the heater
open) the system works as though everything was good as far as mileage and
performance is concerned.
I'm trying to find a set of four pronged plugs (male/female) so I can cut
into the circuit to the O2 sensor and measure voltage and current as step 1
and then substitute a 6 ohm and a 2.7 ohm resistor to test for actual
current for step 2 and 3.
Again I'll post the results when I get this fixed. (I have a feeling this
is going to be one good war story to share over drinks some day)
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