Thats terrific. Unless it doesn't work, like the OP's vehicle. So while you are busy trying to show off how much you know about how it works, I'm telling you to find the problem that makes it not work. And its obviously not working, because its boiling the battery.
Let us know when you come to a conclusion as to what the problem is, because at least three of us have said to do a better and more thorough check of the wiring and componants before going any further.
Meanwhile, you've "taught" us how the system works about five times. Thats great, but this particular system is NOT working properly. So instead of jabbering about how it SHOULD work, develop a troubleshooting procedure, and FIX the goddamnned thing.
Excellent point. One that would be found if the OP disregarded Tbones insistance that checking across the terminals is unnecessary. 1) A static check after sitting a while would show a low voltage, thus enhancing Tbones idea of too much starter draw. 2) A check WHILE charging would confirm proper voltage to the battery. 3) a check after being charged, and another an hour later would indicate battery condition. 4) a load test wouldn't hurt.
All of these depend on checking across the terminals, not to ground and the positive terminal. But hey, all three of us are full of crap.
LOL, the gravity thread? You mean the helium thread, where you proposed that helium had no weight?
As to our intelligence, we intrigued by betting on something with hard to figure odds. For instance, I've got a bet going with a friend locally that a certain person will dump her boyfriend by a certain date. So far, I've lost twice, and won twice. We swap sides and pick new dates for the end of the bet each time. So far, the boyfriend has lost four times, although I don't know if he knows it yet.....
Why indeed, its almost a sure thing that you'll leap up and hit the button. But we do it for fun.
Dignity, class, intellect, manners, proper conduct, respect, just to name a few.
I wasn't talking about you. I was talking about Max and Gary but as far as being wrong goes, if you are checking for an over charge condition, you DO NOT have to measure only on the terminals of the battery and even your own examples prove that.
Don't worry about it, this crap happens all of the time. You can use the new battery and have someone closely monitor the voltage on the ride home. The last thing that you want to do is cook a new battery.
No shit Sherlock, I gave him some possible reasons and how to check for them which is more than you did with your crap about measuring across the terminals, LOL.
Really, what three? Gary said no such thing and come to think of it, neither did nospam. The only one toting this load of crap is you. As for wiring, I did suggest that he check the sense wire and field wiring because they are the only thing that could cause THIS condition. As for what exactly is wrong, I don't know and neither do you but at least I gave him some tests to help find out which is much more than your measure across the damn terminals BS.
Yea, 5 times and you still don't get it.
I did that MANY posts ago and sent it to him already. You really need to pay attention.
How would checking across the terminals determine a bad battery???
The battery would have to be just about dead before the voltage would be low enough to see it and would have NOTHING to do with starter draw since the alt charges it back up right after the started hammers it. Care to try again?
No shit and why I suggested keeping a volt meter hooked up while driving.
True, but it wouldn't say what was hurting it.
Yea, that would tell you the actual condition of the battery.
Every one of these CAN be done with a connection between ground and the positive terminal of the battery but why would you want to.
Wrong! If something is pulling a reasonable current from the battery constantly (like 150 to 500 mills), between that and the huge draw from the starter followed by a 14.2 voltage being applied to it, it can send a reasonably high current into the battery for a fairly long period of time. Perhaps you should learn a little something about batteries.
What are you talking about here? A battery voltage of 12.6 or a system voltage of 12.6?
That is because there is nothing new. You keep saying the same dumb things in the hopes of somehow making yourself look right when you are simply wrong and not man enough to either admit it of just have the dignity to simply walk away. Pretty much the same thing you accuse me of all the time. I guess this makes 7.
Maybe you should as well. "Reasonably high" isn't a technical term anyone here recognizes as something specific. I'd say you are waffling, and had. A battery charging voltage of 14.2 has little or nothing to do with the actual current flowing in the battery, as you've so eloquently stated time after time. Thus, I'm not sure why you bothered to use it as a reason for the battery getting a "reasonably high current". The "huge draw from the starter" is likewise unmeasured.
You have no idea what the particular starter is drawing, and it seems like you don't know what an actual starter draws period. Most starters do not draw near what the battery is rated for on a constant draw. Initial spike might exceed battery rating, but in a well designed and maintained system, this too is unlikely. Further, unless the vehicle is particularly hard starting, starter draw is for short period of time, and will not induce battery boiling.
Even your claim that recharging after a long draw and then a short "huge draw" (WTFIT??) is suspect, as the system design takes into account the battery in that system, and is designed NOT to cook the battery.
So once again, you've discussed things that are irrelevant.
If you don't know, then you shouldn't be part of this discussion.
That is because you are trying to hide from being wrong, as usual. I am using relative terms because I don't know the specific values and neither do you.
I said no such thing and 14.2 volts has EVERYTHING to do with how much current is flowing into the battery along with the batteries state of charge.
The state of charge determins how much current will flow into the battery at a given voltage and if the battery is already weakened by an unintended prolonged current draw from something like an illuminated glove compartment light, the added pull from the starter will make it worse
LOL, there is no need to specifically measure it as it is only compounding the problem in this possible cause of the problem.
LOL, I don't see any numbers comming from you.
Gee Max, near ratings and might exceed ratings are not exactly technical terms anyone here recognizes as something specific either so as is said many times to you, PKB!
LOL, no matter how low I think your knowlege is, you jump in and prove me wrong by showing it to be MUCH lower.
Yea Max, under normal conditions you would be right but that constant draw is not a normal condition and unless the person is using a deep cycle battery, the battery is not designed for that either.
Just because you don't understand it does not make it irrevelant.
You should be the last person to say this when it is obvious that you don't have a clue about the function of the charging system with your voltage means nothing BS and yet, here you are.
Are you so sure about that? Depending on the battery type, 12.6 (static measure) would be from fully charged to 3/4 charged and 11 would be stone cold dead (again, static measure) in all types so if the battery was a low maintenance or a cheep battery, 12.6 would be fully charged.
yea, well that is abusive heat and I would expect a premature failure. I was referring to the rating of the battery and all of mine claim 5 years but then again, I don't buy the cheap batteries.
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