Hi all. We have a 440 big block engine with a 6 Pack cam in it, and a few other hop-up goodies. When running for a while, the driver side exhaust manifold glows bright red, like it's about to melt. The passenger side is fine. Any suggestions on how to fix it? It was built by a por race car engine builder a few years ago. The engine's going in a 64 Studebaker station wagon, by the way. We also have a 70 Super Bee we're working on, as well as many other Studebakers. Thanks, Matthew
Either that side it running lean or you have poorer airflow through there. It is not unusla to have a manifold clow some when working hard and there is no worry of melting that cast in manifold as it will take a LOT more heat than that to do it. Also, overly retarded spark timing can cause it to get extra hot too. ----------------- The SnoMan www.thesnoman.com
Young Captain wrote:
I had this happen on a Briggs&Stratton OHV 14.5 HP vertical shaft engine due to bad exhaust valve adjustment (slightly too far open, oops). Guess it was pushing a little fuel out during the compression stroke and some fire during ignition. Apparently exhaust gasses are normally much cooler by the time the power stroke is completed.
Sounds like an exhaust valve problem????
Young Captain wrote:
Something like this?
Read the comments at the bottom. Amazing ol' motor. I guess the constant water flow to the oil, and the steam developed, kept the oil from breaking down faster than it did...
What I wanna know is whats that weird noise at the end... Electric cooling fan after losing its blades?
Now after watching that, watch this...
I'll take the 305, thanks.
That noise sounds to me like a high pressure gas escaping from a small opening. It already had blown head gaskets so it might be pressurized coolant/vapor escaping.
Never thought I'd say this about a 305, but me too.
Besides a lean condition, severly retarded timing will also cause manifolds to glow red. Late ignition of the mixture will cause the combustion process to continue well after the exhaust valve opens, exposing the manifold(s) to higher than normal temperature.
It's prolly a peice of a ford mustand the engine ate some time ago. It will pass sooner or later. Next time it backfires and smells like shit, you'll know it passed the ford.
I had a similar problem with my 8.0L Ram. Cat was plugged up and lit the whole exhaustsystem up. Check for: blocked exhaust (retaining heat) hung-up exhaust valve loading raw fuel into the manifold
On Thu, 29 Jun 2006 21:13:07 GMT, "MoParMaN"
On Fri, 28 Jul 2006 17:38:35 -0700, email@example.com wrote:
Low octane fuel which cause the spark to be retarded a lot at times which makes fuel afterburn in exhaust system some can cause this too because engine efficencny is reduced and even more gas and heat is dumped into exhaust as it trys to make the power needed for load. ----------------- The SnoMan www.thesnoman.com
Anybody got a translator for this? I tried Babelfish, and it doesn't have a "snoman" language.
You know everytime you do this you do two things, One it show how insecure your really are and two how truely clueless you are on the dynamics of IC engine operational characteristics and principals as well as the thremodynamic princip[les in use. If you were half as smart as you claim to be you would stop posting dribble and read and learn something but then there is not much chance of that. Everytime you try to make me look bad, you make yourself look bad so have at it. You know I acutual studies IC design in college years ago and even wrote a few papers on it too. THe only writing you have done is uninformed BS. I can back up everything with science while your is strictly BS. ----------------- The SnoMan www.thesnoman.com
Actually, I only do one thing, and then you write a book about it. If figure the more you write, the more people will see you and your "facts" for what they are.
Please post a rebuttal.
Hi all. This is a kinda dumb question,what are the signs of a bad cat converter besides mileage and glowing exhaust? Thanks for all your time. firstname.lastname@example.org
It rattles like a can full of marbles when you smack it with a rubber mallet. A more scientific test would be to use a backpressure gauge (either remove an O2 sensor, or drill another hold and weld in a bung) - anything over single-digit PSI when the throttle is snapped would indicate a restriction.