Glowing Red Exhaust Manifold on '95 2.4L Nissan Pickup...........

The exhaust gets cherry red when sitting idling and will barely tach up or drive in gear(manual) . The cam/crank are in time as well as the
distributor. Cap, rotor, plugs and wires thrown at it with no luck. Compression is within 10% of high and low cylinders. It has a ticking noise that sounds like a valve out of adjustment but the valves are not adjustable on this engine. The noise is not heard when the engine is first started and the enigne will tach up quickly as normal but after five minutes or so of idling, the ticking noise appears and the engine will not tach up and exhaust gets red hot. Exhaust out the pipe is clean and not black and does not smell overly rich. I've seen some posts elsewhere mentioning distributor not advancing with engine rpm making for a way retarded timing and red exhaust. I've seen injectors mentioned too but I'm trying to figure out what the ticking noise has to do with the driveability problem. Could a bad injector sound like a valve out of adjustment? Timing chain, guides, sprockets and tensioner replaced due to a broken slack side chain guide. Any ideas???? Thanks, no one.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
no snipped-for-privacy@work.com wrote:

The manifold is glowing because fuel is burning in it. Put a long screwdriver on each injector and the other end on your ear. See if one sounds different. I'd guess you have one stuck open.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Will try the injector sound test tomorrow. I guess the loud clicking could be an injector solenoid or two trying to close a stuck injector. The truck will run fine for a few minutes with no clicking(sometimes) but as soon as I hear the clicking..... very slow tach up and usually won't go past 3000 rpms. The exhaust is not black like I would think an overly rich condition would produce but I'll see if the clicking noise is coming from an injector. Thanks for your time, no one.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
no snipped-for-privacy@work.com wrote:

The ignition timing is WAY RETARDED. That's about the only thing that will do this.
--

Steve

http://www.atlantaracing.com
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

The distributor is rotated for maximum advance as it is, maximum counterclockwise. I haven't put a timing light on it yet but I need to see if the distributor is even advancing at all. Might be dead. I have a haynes manual, not the best, and it states that the 2nd notch from the left(looking down at the crank pulley) is zero. I have rough set the timing by turning the engine over until the 10deg BTDC notch lines up with the pointer then rotate the distributor until the rotor lines up with the number one plug terminal in the distributor cap. Will check the distributor timing/function tomorow as well. Thanks for the info, no one.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
no snipped-for-privacy@work.com wrote:

Get a light, someone probably installed it wrong as it should run like CRAP and ping like crazy twisted full advance. The only time I've ever seen a manifold glow red was when the timing was =real= retarded.
--

Steve

http://www.atlantaracing.com
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

i disagree, a blocked catalyst may have a similar effect. if one valve was stuck open causing an ignition in the exhaust as you mention, then it will still rev up, albeit with a misfire.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
anon wrote:

But the exhaust won't glow cherry red at idle.
--

Steve

http://www.atlantaracing.com
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
A dead body might be stuck inside and burning
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
this Mark guy always has some asshole comment.
message

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Not always, I helped several people, it's not all ahole comment. You cant be serious all your life, you will have a chance to get serious in hell
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
yeah i know yuve been helpful before, i had a bad morning and you took the brunt of it,
message

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I've never seen an iron manifold glow red under ANY circimstances! My best gues is your converter is clogged to the max. The ticking sound is probably an exhaust leak that you only hear when the back pressure is near max.
I did have this problem on my Honda. I got some strange noises like ticking when the converter choked up and it popped the joint between the head pipe and the converter.
I'm guessing you're also down on power too.
-Pete
no snipped-for-privacy@work.com wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
speedy wrote:

Set the timing at 10-15 degrees AFTER TDC and you'll see one do it!
--

Steve

http://www.atlantaracing.com
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Hi,
I'm going to try and get back on the truck this afternoon or tomorrow. Yes, the truck is way down on rpms when the ticking is heard. When first started or when no clicking noise is heard the truck will rev to 6000 or so then only to 3000 or so when the clicking/red exhaust appears. I'm going to check to see if the distributor is advancing first then maybe check the convertor for color change as well. When the chain was replaced, the crank key was straight up per the Haynes manual(not the best), the cam sprocket pip mark parallel to the cam cover mount(3 o'clock position facing the engine) and the oil pump indexed so the distributor rotor was pointing to #1 cylinder. The engine was not moved when the old chain was removed so the cam/crank mechanical timing should have been close. I originally hoped this was the problem but the ticking was there before and after the chain replacement so I need to look somewhere else, like the exhaust system itself. The chain was replaced because of broken chain guides. The truck did have a broken off O2 sensor that was replaced with an O2 sensor the owner provided. I believe when he drove it over it would barely get up the inclined driveway I have so it probably had the red exhaust then but it could not be seen in the daylight. It did have the ticking noise which sounds like a collapsed lifter on #3 or #4 cylinder and it would barely idle. The exhaust is looking like the culprit. Thanks for the info, no one.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.