Heater/A.C. question

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Budd Cochran wrote:


IOW, you're feeling helpless.
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Almost forgot ... Peter's response made sense, yours didn't.
Could that be why I accepted his reply over your drivel?
Budd
Sounded more like smething from a

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Budd Cochran wrote:

Petey posted several, dimwit. His response to me, implying that I don't have my terminology correct, is wrong.
yours didn't.
None of my replies to you will be helpful, Pud. Get used to that.

You also accepted the fool's assertion that "FAA Certificated" was an error.
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So .... did your parents have any kids?
Budd
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Pudd:

They still do, though one sister committed suicide.
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Frank Galikanokus wrote:

Should be able to apply vacuum at the vacuum ball reservoir line and listen inside. 9000 feet isn't going to help but unless the system has leaks it should work fine.
My first suspect would be the o-rings in the control head itself. The one between the ports and the actual selector valve. You can do a simple repair if they are just worn. You take the FIXED side of the valve and a FLAT chunk of glass or granite and some fine sandpaper and remove enough so the rings seat again.
--
Steve W.

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I'll check it out but the control head is probably plastic, not metal and heavily greased.
Budd
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Budd Cochran wrote:

Yep and the O rings tend to flatten out and not seal against the plastic. Then they leak vacuum. The O rings also tend to shift and block passages.
The next area are the actuators and the plastic pieces that connect to the door cranks. They like to break off over time. Then it could be the door itself.
--
Steve W.

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Heater / defrost door seals can cause strange sounds ... I had a 65 Valiant that had a seal go bad and on high fan dogs in the neighbor hood started barking and I got a headache (I'm sensitive to high pitched sounds and dog whistles).
New foam and it was hushed right up.
Budd
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Think diapraghms, not motors.
Mileage has little to do with diapraghm longevity, but times cycled and heat do.
And that is why I wanted to listen for leaks.
Budd
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On 8/27/2011 12:52 AM, Budd Cochran wrote:

Budd, about 90% of the time, I find these problems to be split hoses, and split rubber couplers where nylon hose is used. I'd do a very careful check of those hoses, as I've found some vehicles have nylon hoses, with couplers in the middle somewhere (helps in the vehicle build stage so the assembly line can connect things up quickly) that have cracks because of aging.
Just fixed one (A VW, however) with exactly that problem the other day--vacuum leak, and no HVAC operation. Cracked nylon to HVAC unit coupler that I could not see, but it was bad. (Of course it was bad, I could not see it--bad parts are more likely when you can't see them!)
--
I'm never going to grow up.

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And both types of lines are more likely to fail from heat than miles.
I've turned a wrench or two (small engine mechanic, heavy equipment mechanic and I work on my own vehicles) I just couldn't find a diagram for the HVAC routing in the Ramcharger.
Budd
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On 8/28/2011 12:42 AM, Budd Cochran wrote:

Age has been what I see is the problem with these... They get old, and dry/crack where stretched over the fittings and hoses.
Getting very wet here, I may be back in a day or two...
--
I'm never going to grow up.

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Irene behaved herself here in southern maryland. I lost an old apple tree but that was about it. Power was off for about 20 hours.
beekeep
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This rig had been last worked on by someone that should not be in the same universe as anything remotely resembling a substitute for an empty toolbox.
Timing was 4 degrees slow, the 4MV quadrajet had bent step-up rods and linkage to the step-up piston, misadjusted (too tight!) airalve, float too low, fuel filter in backwards and was loose on the manifold (it shifted around when I loosened the fuel line).
It was running hot, had bad vacuum lines (distributor advance vacuum line was burnt!) and was in a general mess. Gas mileage was non-existant (10 gallons to go 25 miles).
We measured fuel line temps at 160 - 175 degrees between pump and carb, fuel pump at 155 when it waqs vapor locked. That gives an idea of under hood temps it had and that was the heat I think has damaged the vacuum lines.
Budd
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Tell him to keep it away from Snoman next time. ;o)
--


FMB
(North Mexico)
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<LOL!!!!!>
Is he still screwing up anvils?
Actually, it belongs to a disabled lady that someone ripped off royally.
And that should make any decent wrench turner mad.
Budd
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(which has been drained at some time in the past) and I'm trying

Budd
From a port on the intake manifold behind the carburetor, usually. At least all the Chrysler product of that era that I have owned. You might still have the Emission diagram under the hood that will include this information!
Bob AZ
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Thanks, Bob. This is what I wasn't sure about as many vehicles source the vacuum off other lines.
Budd
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