spin the wheels ?

Page 2 of 2  
On Sun, 5 Mar 2006 17:05:39 +0000 (UTC), "tricky"

Yes.
Get a book. Motorbooks International has many books related to automotive repair.
The secondaries won't open if you are doing it with the engine in neutral or park. The engine needs to be under load for that to happen. If you are trying to get the secondaries to open while driving the car then the linkage needs to be cleaned and checked for binding, the diaphragm is dry rotted/cracked/has a hole in it, or the spring might be too heavy for the vacuum to overcome.
...Ron -- 68'RS Camaro 88'Formula 00'GT Mustang
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@handmade-f9.co.uk says...

A 78 with points??
Hmmmm..old distributor, or an aftermarket?
BDK
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Sorry - I do forget its relevant... the motor is a 73, the car is 78
Rich
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@handmade-f9.co.uk says...

Oh, OK. The frozen vacuum advance is going to be a problem..
BDK
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Yeah - I guessed that !!!
Any ideas how to fix it ? Can I spray with WD40 etc or is that a no no ?
Rich
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Mon, 6 Mar 2006 19:36:50 +0000 (UTC), "tricky"

Replace the distributor with a HEI model to start off with. If that is not possible then buy a distributor rebuild kit and or replace the vacuum advance module.
...Ron -- 68'RS Camaro 88'Formula 00'GT Mustang
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@frontiernet.net says...

This sounds good to me. My 79's distributor had the typical HEI rusted weight problem and I used a honing stone to smooth them out and get the rust off, and used some gun lube on them every six months to keep them free, but the rusting was always a problem on some cars. The rusted weight problem was solved permanently by running an external coil. Coil life in Las Vegas went from about a year (When it got a big blue spot on it)to pretty much forever. I put the cooked coils in my emergency box of parts in the trunk. A cap, rotor, pickup, some vacuum hoses, high end duct tape, loctite, and fuses for everything were there, but I never used any of them, that car was pretty much 100% reliable.
I was so stupid to sell it.
BDK
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
thank you both
I will try cleaning it lubing it 1st. I had though about a HEI, will keep an eye out on ebay.
Are they easy to get out and put back ? Chilton sasys they are, but they usually do !
Rich
wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Tue, 7 Mar 2006 07:52:21 +0000 (UTC), "tricky"

Yes, pretty simple to change the distributor. Just remove the cap and wires, mark somewhere on the engine or firewall where the rotor points to, loosen the hold down clamp, remove the distributor (keep an eye on where the rotor ends up as you pull it out), drop the new distributor and gasket back in (making sure to get the rotor pointing at the spot you marked), rewire what needs to be rewired (usually just a keyed power source), start the car, and set the timing.
Chiltons or the like has step by step instructions to go by.
...Ron -- 68'RS Camaro 88'Formula 00'GT Mustang
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.