Friend has a 2002 mazda B2300 (ford ranger). turns over but wont start, was told it might be a fuel problem. i checked the relay button @ the passenger kick panel, the underhood fuse, and the relay. all seem ok. when the key is turned to "Start" i dont hear ANYTHING coming from the fuel tank area. no click, no buzz, nothing. am i in the right direction? is there something else i should be checking first?
On the Explorers it's sometimes the fuel pump relay which, at least on the older ones, could be found in the big black fuse box under the hood. Conveniently they had an identical relay right next to it that could be switched for testing. By relay button I assume you mean the inertia switch that shuts off the fuel pump if you crash. You should be able to test that with an ohmmeter for continutity. I realize you said you checked the relay but you also called the switch a relay so I apologize if I'm telling you what you already did.
I sure sounds like a fuel problem but did you check for spark? Some Fords will turn over and not start due to a low battery.
im going to try the easiest thing- jump starting it. the battery is a 6 yr old motorcraft, so its likely.
if thats not the case, is there a schrader valve under the hood that i could check for fuel and pressure? would a regular tire gauge work?
LMAO A tire gauge might get kinda messy. I hope there is a schrader valve. I think I'd start yelling at Ford if there wasn't. I bought a fuel pressure gauge at Harbor Freight and it didn't cost very much, probably less than $10.
If your battery is really, really bad jump-starting might not work. If it doesn't I'd suggest disconnecting the battery and using a known good one.
I just recently had a similar problem on my '02 Explorer. That is, it would crank but wouldn't start. If the car would sit a while then it would start. This happened two separate times.
After a tow to the dealer they found no computer codes. They did point out that my battery was in poor shape. I replace the fuel pump relay, but it failed once after that so it wasn't the problem.
Then, I replaced the battery. It hasn't failed since.
I now believe that my failure mode was this: I would turn the key rapidly from off to crank, and this didn't allow the fuel rails to pressurize completely before the cranking started. Once the cranking started, my weak battery couldn't put out enough voltage to run the fuel pump (during cranking). This is my theory, anyway.
I learned a lot about troubleshooting after it had failed the second time:
The first thing is to turn the ignition on and listen for the fuel pump. It comes on for about one second when the ignition is first turned on (in order to pre-pressurize the fuel rails). I can open the front passenger window and hear its buzzing while it's momentarily on. It's quiet but very distinctive.
Try turning the key to "ignition" but wait a few seconds. Then, crank it. If it's your battery then this may allow it to start.
In my car, now, I have: Voltmeter (to check battery voltage and other points) DC current clamp meter (to check the fuel pump current at the wires that attach to the emergency cutoff switch near the passenger kick panel) Fuel pressure gauge (to connect to the schraeder valves at the fuel rails) Timing light (to verify that I have spark plug voltage)
So, I'm loaded for bear. I dare this thing to fail again!
Good luck with your problem.