1989 ford crown vic pulls after new brakes installed

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On 14 Apr 2005 20:25:31 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:


Not severly. You are mighty thick and proud of it, eh? Don't forget to check the air in the spare too. LOL!

Somebody sure is fascinated with the same sex, now aren't they? This is the 3rd message to me where you've made such an offer.
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"severe" ... usenet ... relative
Any pull in the steering is severe enough to warrant some concern.
What's your interest in Fords, or you're just another ricer with an attitude?
Forget the euphemisms, all you get is an emphatic "FUM"
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On 15 Apr 2005 07:46:53 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

lmfao'
study study
someday u might be able to get a red seal
hurc ast
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On 15 Apr 2005 07:46:53 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

Only in your little mind. Keep trying. It's funny.
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On Tue, 12 Apr 2005 20:03:28 -0400, gyrene wrote:

Is the pull the reason that you took the car to the shop? Or did it happen following a brake job or other service?
Rodney
-
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gyrene wrote:

Sounds like one of the front brake calipers is hanging up. After you drive a few miles carefully check the temperature of the wheels on both sides of the car (don't burn your hand). Chances are one side will be much hotter than the other. The car will pull in the oppsite direction (away from the hot rotor). A few possibilities of why this happens - bad brake line (acts like a one way valve and keep slight pressure on the pads), caliper not properly sliding on the slider pins (needs lubrication), trash in the caliper blocking proper fluid flow (you can force fluid in, but it doesn't bleed back properly); piston hanging in the caliper. When a caliper hangs, the brakes on that side are always on slightly. It might not be enough to notice at first. However, after a few miles, that brakes get really hot, and the braking effectiveness is decreased on that side. So when you apply the brakes to stop, the cooler brake on the opposite side works much better and the car pulls to the side of the cooler brake. When you first start out, but brakes work properly, it is only after a few miles that the pull starts.
Ed
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On Tue, 12 Apr 2005 20:03:28 -0400, "gyrene"

I have seen this a couple times as a result of a faulty calipre. The problem is one of the calipres is not fully releasing resulting in those pads being warmer than the other side as you drive. When you apply the brakes, the warmer pads are already up to optimum braking temperature intead of needing a couple of turns to get there. The only fix I have seen is to replace both calipres because you basically have no way of determining whether the problem is a tight or loose piston or a bad casting. Also, the brake flex lines to the wheels can do this if the inner liner separates resulting in a "check valve" effect retaining pressure on one of the brakes even when released. The result is the same. I have seen this occur right after a brake job where the tech either dropped the calipre while it was still attached to the hose or simply left the calipre hanging by the hose instead of tying it up with a wire to support it while the brakes are being service as they should be. I suspect the calipre is your particular problem since you say it needs to be driven a bit before the problem occurs.
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Brake hose has a restriction. Rubber inside the hose old, clogged, should have replaced those hoses with all the other work. Rookie mistake.

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