2005 Ford Taurus Electrical Problems

I have a 05 Taurus and it has 500 miles till factory warranty runs out, it is at like 34,000 ish miles and I have had it into the dealer 3 times already, because I have to keep jump starting my car. The first
time I took it in, they replaced the alt and the batt. It worked fine for a while, then I had to start jump starting it again, so I took it back in and they told me that it was the alt so they replaced it and they told me to unplug my gps and my sat radio because that was draining the battery and the alt is mainly to keep the batt charged not to charge it. So I did that, then it started to have to be jumped the last two mornings and I took it back in and they replaced the alt again and told me to unplug the gps and the sat radio, which I had been. So I took it back to work after I picked it up today, and it sat for 4 hours and when I went out to go home, I had to jump start it agin.
Should the gps and the sat radio drain the batt so much, I would think that it would be the case if it was like a 91 or something, but this is a 05, It should be able to handle two things plugged into the lighter and the extra plug in. Then I have a question, what happens if it goes out again and my car is out of warranty, shouldn't this problem still be covered under the warranty? How does that work? If anyone can help me, please let me know.
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TSAITNEEDHELP wrote:

parasitic drains on the electrical systems. Perhaps a glove box, hood or trunk light is not turning off and running the battery down somehow.
In a modern car, there will always be some low current drain with the car off, but you need to find the excessive drain with the car off.
Bob
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TSAITNEEDHELP wrote:

A $3 test lamp would work wonders here. Disconnect your neg battery cable and clamp the lead from the test light to the cable end, and figure out a way to keep the probe end connected to your neg battery post. A jumper cable clamp works. Just don't arc whatever you use as a clamp to the positive terminal if the cover is off (think: plastic clamp instead of metal if available, like a potato chip bag clamp... etc.).
If you have a parasitic drain, as the other poster suggested, the light will come on. However, the light will also come on if the underhood light is on, which in this case it will, so carefully pull the bulb out and see if the test lamp is still on. Make sure all doors are closed to cut off any courtesy lights. If the fuse box is in the engine compartment, I think on this model, start pulling fuses one by one and note if the test lamp is on or off. If one fuse turns the lamp off, you have a parasitic drain in that circuit.
Your application may be different from what I've described, but you can follow these basic concepts to at least figure out what circuit might be causing your battery to drain.
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TSAITNEEDHELP wrote:

This power adapters on my 2004 don't ever turn off. IOW they do not go on and off with the ignition. So i9f the stuff connected to them stays on and draws a lot that might be the problem.
Stu
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wrote:

My 1998 Mercury Sable had "dead battery problems" which Ford could not find. I found that the relay for the thermal sensor and radiator fan was sticking. I live in Arizona and the fan always runs for a while after the engine is shut off, however, it was not shutting off at all. Bought the relay for approx. $14 at Ford since the part number on the relay is not tracable by anyone but Ford.
Hope that helps.
Jerry
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Has anyone checked the battery to alternator fuse in line Maga Fuse?? I have seen many a installer put to much of a load on a line or slip and blow the main fuse. The alternator and the battery will both check good but the alternator is not fully connected to the rest of the car and the accessorys wind up running the battery down. The fuse is located on the side of the underhood fuse box and is under a cover labeled maga fuse. It is about 1 inch long and has a hole in each end where it bolts down. If you follow all the "HOT" cables off the battery you will find it. I am a Service manager at a Pep boys and this has driven us nuts more then once because every thing will check good. It should light a 12v test lamp on each side even with the key off. Hope this helps Jerry wrote:

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