98 Contour Chokes when Accellerating

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1998 Ford Contour SE, 2.0L 4-Cylinder DOHC
Ok, heres a quick run-down of the past 2 weeks or so:
Problem 1) Check Engine Light: Bad O2 Sensor Symptons) Slightly jerky driving
Solution) Replaced both O2 sensors Problem Fixed!
Problem 2) Check Engine Light: Misfire Cylinders 3 & 4 Symptons) REALLY jerky driving Solution) Replaced all 4 spark plugs AND wires Problem Fixed! Runs better than ever!
3-4 days later... Problem 3) Check Engine Light: Ignition System Malfunction or Misfire Symtpons) When accelerating from a complete stop, RPMs drop to almost nil, sometimes (becoming more frequent) stalling out. Also, on the interstate when I hit around 75ish, I begin slowing down. If I try to punch the gas, it drops in RPMs, then when I let up a little, it downshifts and accellerates. Also, when giving it gas, it has a much louder/deeper roar/moan than it used to. And since Im not very car-litterate, Im gonna try hard to describe this next symptom... When I start my car, it seems like the engine is about 1/2 second off from everything else. I can here the starter finish its thing, but dont actually here the engine immediately. The guy at auto zone said the engine code was a generic manufacturer code that could mean anything. He suggested something about my ignition coil and come ind of controller something-or-other.
Any clues? Thanks!
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RunBoris wrote:

I would suggest having someone other than the "guy at Auto Zone" diagnose your car. Those folks are not technicians. My suspicion is that your catalytic converter is plugged (either causing, or caused by a rich fuel condition). I suspect this initially caused the "bad O2 sensor code". The sensor was likely not "bad". It was reporting the rich fuel condition. The plugs became fouled due to the rich condition and the new ones masked the problem temporarily. This is not a diagnosis, but a hunch based on your description. It could be that your misfire is caused by a plugged converter which is in turn causing the rich condition, or that the misfire is causing a rich condition and loss of power. It could also be something as simple as a plugged fuel filter causing a lean condition, misfire and loss of power. Before you throw any more parts at the problem, have it properly diagnosed.                 Tom
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"Tom Adkins" wrote: > RunBoris wrote: > > 1998 Ford Contour SE, 2.0L 4-Cylinder DOHC > > > > Ok, heres a quick run-down of the past 2 weeks or so: > > > > Problem 1) Check Engine Light: Bad O2 Sensor > > Symptons) Slightly jerky driving > > Solution) Replaced both O2 sensors > > Problem Fixed! > > > > Problem 2) Check Engine Light: Misfire Cylinders 3 & 4 > > Symptons) REALLY jerky driving > > Solution) Replaced all 4 spark plugs AND wires > > Problem Fixed! Runs better than ever! > > > > 3-4 days later... > > Problem 3) Check Engine Light: Ignition System Malfunction > or Misfire > > Symtpons) When accelerating from a complete stop, RPMs drop > to almost > > nil, sometimes (becoming more frequent) stalling out. Also, > on the > > interstate when I hit around 75ish, I begin slowing down. If > I try to > > punch the gas, it drops in RPMs, then when I let up a > little, it > > downshifts and accellerates. Also, when giving it gas, it > has a much > > louder/deeper roar/moan than it used to. > > And since Im not very car-litterate, Im gonna try hard to > describe > > this next symptom... When I start my car, it seems like the > engine is > > about 1/2 second off from everything else. I can here the > starter > > finish its thing, but dont actually here the engine > immediately. > > The guy at auto zone said the engine code was a generic > manufacturer > > code that could mean anything. He suggested something about > my > > ignition coil and come ind of controller something-or-other. > > > > Any clues? Thanks! > > > I would suggest having someone other than the "guy at Auto > Zone" diagnose your car. > Those folks are not technicians. > My suspicion is that your catalytic converter is plugged > (either causing, or caused > by a rich fuel condition). I suspect this initially caused the > "bad O2 sensor code". > The sensor was likely not "bad". It was reporting the rich > fuel condition. The plugs > became fouled due to the rich condition and the new ones > masked the problem > temporarily. This is not a diagnosis, but a hunch based on > your description. > It could be that your misfire is caused by a plugged > converter which is in turn > causing the rich condition, or that the misfire is causing a > rich condition and loss > of power. It could also be something as simple as a plugged > fuel filter causing a lean > condition, misfire and loss of power. > Before you throw any more parts at the problem, have it > properly diagnosed. > &nbsp;&nbsp;                Tom
Well, I was hoping this would be as easy of a problem as the other 2, thus the reason I only went to Auto Zone (for an ODB2 scan).
Anywho, is a plugged cat. converter something that can be easily unplugged? Or do I absolutely have to have a mechanic do that? Reason I ask is because Im low on money, and I have to use my car for work. (So Id have to wait for a paycheck before professionals repairs, in turn having to miss work for a week).
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(...)

No. The catalytic convertor has to be replaced.
The price on this job is in the $500 - $600 range. I googled catalyc convertor and found one for your car for about $300. I think it is a three hour job. Your shop will probably charge you more than $300 for the catalytic convertor. You might be able to bring the catalytic convertor with you, though. I think Ford paid my dealer around $800 to replace my catalytic convertors on my V6 contour.
If your car has less than 80,000 mi on it, in which case is should be covered under your emissions warranty.
You can also try talking to the local Ford dealer, esp. if bought the car there. They might be willing be to cut a deal with you because it should not have failed.
You might also be able to replace the catalyic convertor yourself, if you are handy with tools, but it is a pain to get to.
Jeff
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RunBoris wrote:

Whoa, the plugged cat was speculation. You really need to have the car checked out by a qualified tech. IF the cat is plugged, you are looking at ~$300 or more. It cannot be unplugged. Lets try this. Take the car back to AZ. Have them CLEAR the codes to start over. (This will not "fix" the car).Drive the vehicle until the CEL returns. Don't drive it like you are late for work and trying to force it to run. Just cruise around til the light comed back on. Have the codes read and post the results. We need the actual code (P-0103, P-0171, etc. in that format, not just "O2 sensor code, or "misfire code").                 Tom
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On Tue, 01 Mar 2005 12:25:57 -0500, Tom Adkins

lmfao you dont have a ticket either lmfao

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Install fuel pressure gauge and observe the pressure when the condition occurs. Sounds like a low fuel pressure problem.
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"user1331" wrote: > Install fuel pressure gauge and observe the pressure when the > condition occurs. > Sounds like a low fuel pressure problem. > "RunBoris" <UseLinkToEmail@New & Used Cars Forums - > AutoForumz.com> wrote in > message > > 1998 Ford Contour SE, 2.0L 4-Cylinder DOHC > > > > Ok, here's a quick run-down of the past 2 weeks or so: > > > > Problem 1) Check Engine Light: Bad O2 Sensor > > Symptons) Slightly jerky driving > > Solution) Replaced both O2 sensors > > Problem Fixed! > > > > Problem 2) Check Engine Light: Misfire Cylinders 3 & 4 > > Symptons) REALLY jerky driving > > Solution) Replaced all 4 spark plugs AND wires > > Problem Fixed! Runs better than ever! > > > > 3-4 days later... > > Problem 3) Check Engine Light: Ignition System Malfunction > or Misfire > > Symtpons) When accelerating from a complete stop, RPMs drop > to almost > > nil, sometimes (becoming more frequent) stalling out. Also, > on the > > interstate when I hit around 75ish, I begin slowing down. If > I try to > > punch the gas, it drops in RPMs, then when I let up a > little, it > > downshifts and accellerates. Also, when giving it gas, it > has a much > > louder/deeper roar/moan than it used to. > > And since I'm not very car-litterate, I'm gonna try hard to > describe > > this next symptom... When I start my car, it seems like the > engine is > > about 1/2 second off from everything else. I can here the > starter > > finish it's thing, but don't actually here the engine > immediately. > > The guy at auto zone said the engine code was a generic > manufacturer > > code that could mean anything. He suggested something about > my > > ignition coil and come ind of controller something-or-other. > > > > Any clues? Thanks! > > > > -- > > Posted using the http://www.autoforumz.com interface, at author's request > > Articles individually checked for conformance to usenet > standards > > Topic URL: > > http://www.autoforumz.com/Ford-Mecury-98-Contour-Chokes-Accellerating-ftopict105510.html > > Visit Topic URL to contact author (reg. req'd). Report > abuse: > > http://www.autoforumz.com/eform.php?pI0969
Well, I was going to take my car to a mechanic this moning, but now it wont start at all. I had a family member briefly look it over, and he says there is gas going to the engine, and there is spark, but thats all he knew. I looked at a few places online to see if anyone else had my problems and heres what I found:
On Contours, the air will get stuck on defrost if there is no vacuum; and my cars air has been stuck on defrost for a long time.
Also, Ive read a lot about a mass airflow sensor. Could either of those be related to my current problem? Thanks!
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How did he check for fuel to the engine?

problem not related.

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What? I dont understand that?
And as far as checking the fuel, Im not sure exactly how to explain it well... There was a line going into the engine, with a cap in the middle of the line... Kinda like the stem on a tire. He took the cap off, pressed the button, and gas squirted out. Anywho, Ill call a tow truck in the morning, so it really isnt realistic to consider repairing it myself. Ive lost more time at work than it would cost to have it diagnosed. Oh well, thanks anyways!
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That will not tell you what the fuel pressure is, only that there is fuel in the line. Which many times is not enough to run the engine.
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Contour/Mystique have a recall for bad cat converter (free). I just got $2500 free parts and labour for a 95 Mystique V6 Duratec complete exhaust manifold and cat, and tubes back to muffler.
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"Snowman" wrote: > Contour/Mystique have a recall for bad cat converter (free). > I just got $2500 free parts and labour for a 95 Mystique V6 > Duratec > complete exhaust manifold and cat, and tubes back to muffler. > > > "RunBoris" <UseLinkToEmail@New & Used Cars Forums - > AutoForumz.com> wrote in > message > > 1998 Ford Contour SE, 2.0L 4-Cylinder DOHC > > > > Ok, here's a quick run-down of the past 2 weeks or so: > > > > Problem 1) Check Engine Light: Bad O2 Sensor > > Symptons) Slightly jerky driving > > Solution) Replaced both O2 sensors > > Problem Fixed! > > > > Problem 2) Check Engine Light: Misfire Cylinders 3 & 4 > > Symptons) REALLY jerky driving > > Solution) Replaced all 4 spark plugs AND wires > > Problem Fixed! Runs better than ever! > > > > 3-4 days later... > > Problem 3) Check Engine Light: Ignition System Malfunction > or Misfire > > Symtpons) When accelerating from a complete stop, RPMs drop > to almost > > nil, sometimes (becoming more frequent) stalling out. Also, > on the > > interstate when I hit around 75ish, I begin slowing down. If > I try to > > punch the gas, it drops in RPMs, then when I let up a > little, it > > downshifts and accellerates. Also, when giving it gas, it > has a much > > louder/deeper roar/moan than it used to. > > And since I'm not very car-litterate, I'm gonna try hard to > describe > > this next symptom... When I start my car, it seems like the > engine is > > about 1/2 second off from everything else. I can here the > starter > > finish it's thing, but don't actually here the engine > immediately. > > The guy at auto zone said the engine code was a generic > manufacturer > > code that could mean anything. He suggested something about > my > > ignition coil and come ind of controller something-or-other. > > > > Any clues? Thanks! > > > > -- > > Posted using the http://www.autoforumz.com interface, at author's request > > Articles individually checked for conformance to usenet > standards > > Topic URL: > http://www.autoforumz.com/Ford-Mecury-98-Contour-Chokes-Accellerating-ftopict105510.html > > Visit Topic URL to contact author (reg. req'd). Report > abuse: > http://www.autoforumz.com/eform.php?pI0969
Really??? That sounds great, even if that isnt the real problem! Is this a recall only for cars that have a problem? Reason I ask is because I have checked the available recalls on Fords website, and the only thing listed was the blower resister, which Ive recently done. Thanks for the info! Ill see what the mechanic says about me car this morning; tow truck is en route. Thanks again!
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"RunBoris" wrote: > Really??? That sounds great, even if that isn't the real > problem! Is this a recall only for cars that have a problem? > Reason I ask is because I have checked the available recalls > on Ford's website, and the only thing listed was the blower > resister, which I've recently done. Thanks for the info! I'll > see what the mechanic says about me car this morning; tow > truck is en route. Thanks again!
I nearly crapped my pants when the mechanic called me back... He said he believes the timing belt has jumped, and the estimate was $1550+. So, how difficult would this be to fix myself? And is $1550 a realistic price from a mechanic, or is he BSing me?
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RunBoris wrote:

If I remember correctly, when the belt brecks on this motor it usually taked some valves with it. If so, $1500 is about right.             Tom
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The V6 has a timing chain. If it jumped, it might cause damage to the pistons, cylinder heads and valves. However, if it is an non-interference engine, it might not cause any harm, other than require replacing the chain.
Jeff
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Jeff wrote:

His car has a 2.0L 4 cyl. They were "supposed" to be non-interference, but they aren't. If the cam timing jumps they usually trash a couple of valves.
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The original poster had a V6. Sorry for the confusion.
Jeff
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"Jeff41" wrote: > "RunBoris" <UseLinkToEmail@New & Used Cars Forums - > AutoForumz.com> wrote in > message > > "RunBoris" wrote: > &nbsp;> > Really??? That sounds great, even if that isn't the > real > &nbsp;> > problem! Is this a recall only for cars that have a > problem? > &nbsp;> > Reason I ask is because I have checked the available > recalls > &nbsp;> > on Ford's website, and the only thing listed was the > blower > &nbsp;> > resister, which I've recently done. Thanks for the > info! I'll > &nbsp;> > see what the mechanic says about me car this > morning; tow > &nbsp;> > truck is en route. Thanks again! > > > > I nearly crapped my pants when the mechanic called me > back... He said > > he believes the timing belt has jumped, and the estimate was > $1550+. > > So, how difficult would this be to fix myself? And is $1550 > a > > realistic price from a mechanic, or is he BSing me? > > The V6 has a timing chain. If it jumped, it might cause damage > to the > pistons, cylinder heads and valves. However, if it is an > non-interference > engine, it might not cause any harm, other than require > replacing the > chain. > > Jeff
Well, unfortunately I have the 4-cylinder which has the timing belt. Now, can someone explain to me how my timing belt just decided to jump off, or whatever it is that it did? And would that really cause the choking during accelleration? And also, why did it gradually get worse over a period of a couple days? Shouldnt it have just died? This whole thing is very confusing and frustrating...
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What usually happens on the 2.0 is the bearing siezes on the timing belt tensioner , the belt then wears the plastic wheel down until it gets loose enough to slip a tooth or two. This throws off the valve timing. Eventually the teeth shear off of part of the belt or it breaks,and the camshafts stop moving. The crankshaft keeps moving for a little while. Any valves held open by the camshafts become intimate with the still moving pistons.
You are supposed to replace the timing belt every 50K miles or so to prevent this kind of failure. You probably had a kind of rattling noise coming from the motor at idle for a while. That was the timing belt slapping the plastic cover between the camshaft gears. Many people don't notice the noise until it's too late.
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