Drive your car to death, save $31,000

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There is no question a low mileage vehicle can break down and one with over 150K may not under similar conditions, but logic dictates the odds are far
greater that one with over 150K is far more likely to do so. ;)
mike
<clare at snyder.on.ca> wrote in message wrote:

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On Sat, 8 Sep 2007 16:19:13 -0400, "Mike Hunter"

But since when is a machine logical?????????
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And a friend's 1992? Civic just turned 500,000km - engine never opened up. Only repairs have been one distributor,one axle shaft, one wheel bearing, a few sets of brakes. Still original AC belt, and the AC still works - in the salt belt of central ontario.

Better yet? Buy that (honda civic or whatever) car USED - about 2 years old with less than 30,000 miles on it Keep IT 15 years.
I bought a 1988 Chrysler New Yorker (not the best bet) in excellent condition with 100,000km (60,000 miles) in 1994 for $5000. I sold it 3 years ago with 240,000 km on it for $1700. That's $3300 for 10 years and 140,000 km. My total repair costs (not including some body work due to 2 small accidents my daughter and wife had) including tires, brakes and oil changes was about another $3300. $660 per year plus gas and insurance is VERY economical driving. About 2 months car payments per year.
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or, as the example of the panger below, you can just buy a ford, and drive it forever

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One can run any car 200K or more if properly maintained. I own a 1971 Pinto that has 302,000 on the clock. It was meticulously maintained, the first major repair was a C&V job at 299K. It cost $1,900 new, looks and runs like new. To replace it with a Civic today would cost at least $19,000.
mike

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CR apparently assumed one would never buy ANOTHER new car. When one considers a car purchased today for $25,000, will cost $40,000 or more to replace in fifteen years, that "savings" of nearly $31,000 will result in a $9,000 LOSS or more when you add in the cost of a replacement vehicle in fifteen years. LOL
mike

http://money.cnn.com/2007/08/30/autos/cr_drive_200k/index.htm?postversion 07083113

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Sold my 1988 Chrysler New Yorker with 108,000 miles this year, just short of it's 20th birthday. Rust did it in.
Put 235,000 miles on a 1985 T-Bird 3.8 over a 10 year period... again rust killed the body, engine was okay.
My 12 year old 1995 T-Bird with 71,000 has no rust issues. Partly due to being garaged and no longer commuting to work.
Got to thank the local highway dept. for all that stuff they put down on the roads in the winter.
Steve
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Steven Stone wrote:

Do you have a better alternative? Letting cars slide into each other, perhaps.
Jeff
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wrote:

No, just plough the darn roads and teach the drivers how to drive in snow. They are using a LOT more salt now than they did 30 years ago, and they are "trying" to reduce it's use. Our winters were worse then than they are now too here in Central Ontario.
Back then EVERYONE used snow tires in the winter - many had studded tires, and virtually NOBODY was stupid enough to try to drive 140kph in the snow.
The cars still rusted as badly as they do now, but that was because the metal quality and preparation was not up to today's standards.
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| |Do you have a better alternative? Letting cars slide into each other, |perhaps. | |Jeff
I telecommute to work since 1995. No traffic, lower insurance rates. Steve
|
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Steven Stone wrote:

Do you guys have rust check down there?
That stuff is worth its weight in gold.
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com says... | |Do you guys have rust check down there? | |That stuff is worth its weight in gold. |
I'm not familiar with Rust Check. Please tell me more. Steve
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I'm going to see if I can get 250K out of my 99 Windstar, 120k so far. Almost halfway :)
and I didnt bother to read the article but brand new cars are a pretty bad investment, if you need to buy newer just get one with 20k or so on it, that will knock quite a bit off the price.
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Max Power wrote:

you must be like me.. poor ;P
Too bad trucks weren't the same way... those damn things don't seem to depreciate very fast for the first 7 years (at least not after the first 1-2)
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Don't know what the sticker was, but in 03 I bought an 02 Town Car with 33K on the clock for $22,900.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Retired Shop Rat: 14,647 days in a GM plant. Now I can do what I enjoy: Large Format Photography
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If one expects to put 150K on the vehicle they just purchased. when will one spend the most amount of money on maintenance and repairs and experience the most amount of down time, the first 33K or the last 33K? Would it not make more sense to start at zero miles, to run it for those 150K, if it is ones only vehicle on which one must depend? ;)
mike
wrote:

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@mailcity.com says... |If one expects to put 150K on the vehicle they just purchased. when will one |spend the most amount of money on maintenance and repairs and experience the |most amount of down time,
In the case of 1985 T-Bird, stuff I didn't expect to break happened:
75,000 miles - radiator 125,000 - struts, shocks, exhaust system 135,000 - C5 transmission rebuild 1??,??? - heater core rotted out, a nightmare job 185,000 - more cooling issues, gas tank rusted out from the top of the tank 225,000 - significant rust setting in, electrical system failures (fuel pump power relay, dashboard voltage regulator, etc.)
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