Electric window motor replacement in Topaz

I am trying to help a senior citizen with a problem with the electric motor for the driver side window of her 1990 Topaz. She is on a fixed income and I
am trying to save her some money as the woman is poor.
I took the panel off and found that the gear on the end of the motor was seemingly stripping with no movement of the window. I called locally and I seem to be able to get a part from a discount auto parts store for around 50 bucks.
My questuin:
It seemed to have 4 fasteners that look very difficult to remove with the space inside the door. Does that geared bellcrank pop off revealing better access to the screws that mount the motor assembly? Looks like one screw is obscured and cover by the bellcrank. It looks like a pain in the ass job, though only involving a few screws. Any suggestions?
(please do not say take to a dealer, I do a lot of hobby mechanical work)
Is the gearing on the end of the motor a separate part or is the part packaged with the motor?
Thanks for any reply.
Harry
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Is there any way for me to remove the front half of the key or do I need to take the car to a locksmith?
Thanks
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1. Try to grab it with a pair of needle nose pliers.
2. Failing that - straighten out a paper clip, and try to super glue the tip of it to the exposed edge of the broken off key. Takes awhile to dry. Could be a PITA holding it while it does. Goes without saying not to get any super glue in the lock itself.
If you manage to get it dried, it'll almost surely let you pull that key out.
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BTW, forgot this: will the lock turn? If so, stick the tip of the same paper clip into the tiny hole on the face of the lock cylinder and push. This will release the keeper, allowing you to turn the lock counterclockwise and pull the cylinder itself out. You could no doubt get the broken off piece out then.
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Yes, it does still turn. I will try this tomorrow. Thanks!
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Well, the lock turns but I couldn't find the hole you mentioned. My old Fairmont has one but I guess the 1996 Aspires don't? Thanks
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Paul wrote:

I believe if you remove the plastic shourd around the steering column, you will be able to remove the ignition switch.
Ed
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Section 11-05: Steering Column Switches 1996 Aspire Workshop Manual
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ignition Switch The ignition switch (11572) is located in the lock cylinder housing which is clamped to the steering column. The ignition switch is concealed beneath the steering column shrouds (3530) and is secured to the lock cylinder housing with a single screw.
The ignition switch is a rotary type switch operated directly by the ignition key lock cylinder. A plastic lug on the end of the lock cylinder engages a matching slot on the switch contact plate. When the ignition key is turned to the ACC, ON, or START position, rotation of the contact plate will connect various circuits to battery voltage. In the ACC position, accessories such as the radio chassis (18806) and cigar lighter knob and element (15052) are energized. In the ON position, the circuits required to operate the vehicle are energized. In the START position, the starter solenoid (11390) receives voltage, closing the contacts to energize the starter circuit which allows the starter motor (11002) to crank the engine (6007).
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Section 11-05: Steering Column Switches 1996 Aspire Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ignition Switch Removal
Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301).
Remove the three steering column shroud screws.
Separate upper and lower portions of the steering column shroud (3530).
Remove the steering column shroud from the steering column.
Remove the ignition switch screw and the ignition switch (11572).
Disconnect the ignition switch electrical connector.
Disconnect the ignition key reminder switch electrical connector.
If necessary, remove the two ignition key reminder switch screws and the ignition key reminder switch.
Installation
To install, reverse the removal procedure.

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My 1978 Mercury Cougar, 351M, 2bbl, surges at idle but runs just fine at all other speeds. A smog test today showed idle HC at 2000 (220 max allowable) and CO at 7.20 (2.00 max allowable) but only 18 and 0.06 at 2500 rpm. What might cause this? Is it an easy fix? Could the Cat be damaged by the increased unburned gas? Thanks, Paul
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=======================It is very rich at idle, posibly be able to adjust it out with the idle mix screws. Might need the card overhauled. Yes it damage the CAT.
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Check the idle needle screws. It's possible that someone bottomed them hard and messed up the tips. This would make a good idle adjustment impossible. The autolite 2-barrels are easy to overhaul with a kit from a parts store. But the needle screws aren't in the kit. You shouldn't have any problem finding good ones in a junkyard.
max-income
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motor
I
50
is
Any
to remove the whole thing., usually just 3 little bolts. I think you are trying to remove just the motor part...dont....remove it all. Does the motor run but wont move the window? If so you can get a gear/clutch kit for it most likely.
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> You can sometimes drill a hole in the panel to get to the screw. You need

motor
OK. So you can get the gear/clutch replacement? The motor does work. If it is only those 3 screws it should not be that difficult but putting my hand behind the unit, through where the speaker is mounted, it feels like there is another, very difficult to access, screw behind the large gear. This would be a 4th screw. If feels like there is a threaded boss behind there too that the screw is in. Perhaps this is not a mounting screw? Perhaps a casing screw of the gear/clutch unit?
Thanks for the reply..
Harry
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wrote

need
there
around the round "head" or "gear" part. They will face you as you look in the door. They will have a 8mm or 5/16 hex head on them. I remember there always being just 3, but 4 is possible. I dont think it is possible for the gear you discribe to cover it. But if so, move the window up or down by hand as need be to get to it. Remove the speaker too to give you more room. There are clutch/gear kits for ALOT of ford motors. Very common for them to break inside. Check out this link, a picture of a motor. The bolts that hold it in are around the large round part with the gear in it. In that same place resides the clutch that breaks on Fords. After the motor removal you simply remove the cover from the gear, the cover is removed in the picture exposing the clutch. Of coarse I am assuming from your discription that this is the problem. (motor runs but window moves just a little if at all or with help from your hand pulling on it, window is straight and still "in track") GL http://www.classicbuicks.com/windowmtr.htm
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in
Thanks. Looking at that picture I now believe like you said originally - 3 screws. I called up a local auto parts store and they said that 'Help!' (tm) has a gear for it if it is stripped, 'Help!' part #74412. The motor does run, if it not the gear then it is the clutch. Obviously, I will know immediately when I pull it and look at the gear. I will do it for the person after Thanksgiving.
Thanks again.
Harry
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wrote

look
(tm)
person
believe you will find it is the clutch though. It might be a little hard to find but it sounds like you are dealing with a good parts place. The gear they discribed is probably the clutch AND the gear. GL

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