Defender Td5 electric window failure

Hi, I was on this group before but haven't been on for a while. The 2002 D90 was a joy but I needed more space so recently purchased a
2005 td5 Defender 110 with 55,000 miles. I am having fun catching up with the previous owner's neglect and lack of mechanical savvy and I need the help of you guys!
The current problem is that the electric window winder has stopped working on the driver's side. I have the lining off and a copy of the wiring diagram. I've tried swapping switches but with no success. The fuses haven't blown and there don't appear to be any broken wires. The passenger side window mechanism works fine. Any suggestions? What should I test and how?
I think the vibration (disguised by 50psi in the front and 30psi in the back plus horrendously out of balanced wheels!) is almost sorted. Bad shock mountings on the back had caused serious castellation in the tyres. Every other "lump" on the inside edge of the tyres was wedge shaped. I have replaced the two tyres with the worst castellations with new ones and I really ought to replace two more! I have also matched up the splines in the prop shaft which someone had put together incorrectly. The local LR dealers found oil in the injector wiring harness so I've changed that. New front shocks to go on next week. I think I'm getting there. There's a new bulb to go into the dash but the last (!) serious problem is this damned electric window. Who the heck needs an electric window in a Landrover, anyway? It's sure to go wrong -- and has done!
Derry
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On 02/02/2011 14:54, Derry wrote:

Welcome back! It's certainly been some time. Hope that you're well.
Ah, the joys of sorting a 'new' LandRover.
When you say that the winder is not working, I assume that it's a case of the motor that isn't running rather than a motor that runs but a window that doesn't move.
I've only got a 2002 MY circuit diagram but I imagine that it'll be close to what you have. Other than what appears to be a very convoluted earth path from the motor it seems fairly straightforward - at least no ECUs on this picture!
Is your circuit diagram a good one?
Go back to basics and check through starting at the output from the satellite fuse box. You've proved the input to this fuse box if the other side motor works. Once you've proved volts at the motor input I'd suggest taking the other terminal straight to earth and see what happens. Remember that which motor terminal is live will depend on the switch position. There's no power at the motor in the middle switch position. If the motor works you'll have to correct an earth fault (which could be in the switch, itself), otherwise you've got a dead motor. Confirm by isolating and putting 12V directly across the motor.
Good luck.
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On Feb 2, 3:37 pm, Dougal <DougalATHisKennel.free-online.co.uk> wrote:

Thanks, Dougal! Hope I won't need to post here much <vbg>, but I thought the cause of the vibration interesting and not one any of the local mechanics had heard of before. It was my tyre fitter who pointed out that castellation is caused by shock absorbers and a mechanic who pointed out that the irregular wear would cause vibration. I had just purchased a brand new set of LR wheels and tyres so tried them and over 50% of the vibration disappeared.
The electrc window winder is sorted! Or it will be tomorrow. I phoned the local LR dealers with a query about the tell tale light display for the hand brake just above the steering wheel and thought to ask, "Is there a mechanic handy, by any chance?" I asked if there was a generic fault with electric window winders and without hesitation he said, "It will be a broken wire between the door and the door post, inside that little rubber sleeve thingy". I went out to check and he was spot on. The wires harden with age and as they flex every time the door is opened and closed, they break inside the rubber sleeve. It is easy enough to push the sleeve back from one end or the other. In fact there is one broken wire and a second with core intact but the outer insulation cracked right across. So I have a soldering job to do in the morning!
Incidentally, the tell tale light for the hand brake does not come on in the dash, as I said above. I got a new bulb (or so I thought) the other day. Opening up that area requires removing four torx screws but the actual lights appear to be tiny diodes about 2mm cube on a circuit board. No bulbs at all. So if one fails, it means replacing the whole board (about 4cm x 200mm?). The storesman mentioned, "They are expensive". I don't know how much as I didn't ask. I can do without the light on that information! Anyway, the fault may be at the handbrake end so nothing lost there.
Thanks for the quick response. This vehicle is gradually becoming a joy to drive. Next, I might need to tighten up the swivel preload as the steering is a bit soft.... Can't keep my hands to myself!<g>
Derry
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On 02/02/2011 20:29, Derry wrote:

Have you checked that the switch/adjustment/wiring for it is OK? It could still be a cheap repair!

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