Hi, I was on this group before but haven't been on for a while. The
2002 D90 was a joy but I needed more space so recently purchased a
2005 td5 Defender 110 with 55,000 miles. I am having fun catching up
with the previous owner's neglect and lack of mechanical savvy and I
need the help of you guys!
The current problem is that the electric window winder has stopped
working on the driver's side. I have the lining off and a copy of the
wiring diagram. I've tried swapping switches but with no success. The
fuses haven't blown and there don't appear to be any broken wires. The
passenger side window mechanism works fine. Any suggestions? What
should I test and how?
I think the vibration (disguised by 50psi in the front and 30psi in
the back plus horrendously out of balanced wheels!) is almost sorted.
Bad shock mountings on the back had caused serious castellation in the
tyres. Every other "lump" on the inside edge of the tyres was wedge
shaped. I have replaced the two tyres with the worst castellations
with new ones and I really ought to replace two more! I have also
matched up the splines in the prop shaft which someone had put
together incorrectly. The local LR dealers found oil in the injector
wiring harness so I've changed that. New front shocks to go on next
week. I think I'm getting there. There's a new bulb to go into the
dash but the last (!) serious problem is this damned electric window.
Who the heck needs an electric window in a Landrover, anyway? It's
sure to go wrong -- and has done!
Welcome back! It's certainly been some time. Hope that you're well.
Ah, the joys of sorting a 'new' LandRover.
When you say that the winder is not working, I assume that it's a case
of the motor that isn't running rather than a motor that runs but a
window that doesn't move.
I've only got a 2002 MY circuit diagram but I imagine that it'll be
close to what you have. Other than what appears to be a very convoluted
earth path from the motor it seems fairly straightforward - at least no
ECUs on this picture!
Is your circuit diagram a good one?
Go back to basics and check through starting at the output from the
satellite fuse box. You've proved the input to this fuse box if the
other side motor works. Once you've proved volts at the motor input I'd
suggest taking the other terminal straight to earth and see what
happens. Remember that which motor terminal is live will depend on the
switch position. There's no power at the motor in the middle switch
position. If the motor works you'll have to correct an earth fault
(which could be in the switch, itself), otherwise you've got a dead
motor. Confirm by isolating and putting 12V directly across the motor.
On Feb 2, 3:37 pm, Dougal <DougalATHisKennel.free-online.co.uk> wrote:
Thanks, Dougal! Hope I won't need to post here much <vbg>, but I
thought the cause of the vibration interesting and not one any of the
local mechanics had heard of before. It was my tyre fitter who pointed
out that castellation is caused by shock absorbers and a mechanic who
pointed out that the irregular wear would cause vibration. I had just
purchased a brand new set of LR wheels and tyres so tried them and
over 50% of the vibration disappeared.
The electrc window winder is sorted! Or it will be tomorrow. I phoned
the local LR dealers with a query about the tell tale light display
for the hand brake just above the steering wheel and thought to ask,
"Is there a mechanic handy, by any chance?" I asked if there was a
generic fault with electric window winders and without hesitation he
said, "It will be a broken wire between the door and the door post,
inside that little rubber sleeve thingy". I went out to check and he
was spot on. The wires harden with age and as they flex every time the
door is opened and closed, they break inside the rubber sleeve. It is
easy enough to push the sleeve back from one end or the other. In fact
there is one broken wire and a second with core intact but the outer
insulation cracked right across. So I have a soldering job to do in
Incidentally, the tell tale light for the hand brake does not come on
in the dash, as I said above. I got a new bulb (or so I thought) the
other day. Opening up that area requires removing four torx screws but
the actual lights appear to be tiny diodes about 2mm cube on a circuit
board. No bulbs at all. So if one fails, it means replacing the whole
board (about 4cm x 200mm?). The storesman mentioned, "They are
expensive". I don't know how much as I didn't ask. I can do without
the light on that information! Anyway, the fault may be at the
handbrake end so nothing lost there.
Thanks for the quick response. This vehicle is gradually becoming a
joy to drive. Next, I might need to tighten up the swivel preload as
the steering is a bit soft.... Can't keep my hands to myself!<g>
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