I am having a problem with my '03 Ford Escape where it dies when I
shift it into reverse. It doesn't do it every time probably 2 out of 5
times. I brought it into the ford dealership to have them look at it
but of course it didn't do it while it was in the shop so they just
checked the throttle-body, fuel injectors and changed the fuel filter,
3 days after I got it back from the shop it started doing it again.
They didn't say whether or not they pulled any fault codes for the OBD
II. When I shift it into reverse it will just die and the Oil,
Transmission, and Battery light come on, but not the check engine
It sure should be if it is a covered repair.
Insist that it should be covered under any factory emissions warranty
first, then look into the extended, and still call it an "emissions"
issue or they might turn you down because it's a burned out bulb(bulbs
are not ordinarily covered).
Get out your paperwork and read up - each warranty company has about 3
different levels of coverage. The bulb is about $1.00, but the labor to
replace it can be $$$. You have a bigger problem, than the bulb, though.
Get the emissions system fixed.
Find out why the bulb is out or disconnected.
What state do you live in? Have you had a DMV emissions test done?
"CEL" = "Check Engine Light"
...or in the case of the Escape, "SES" = "Service Engine Soon"
Read all about it here on page 10:
It's not the burned bulb that is causing your car to stall in reverse,
it is the bulb being burned out, if that is indeed correct, that is
not warning you that something is amiss in your powertrain management
The point the other poster was making is probably if the techs did not
see a bulb shining, they may have ignored scanning for them. In which
case I would start going to another dealer. That is usually the first
thing I would do and I'm just a car owner/driver.
And, correct me if I am wrong, but useful information that may help the OP
can be found by scanning the system even if the light is not on (I mean,
assuming the bulb is not burnt out and is properly connected).
I think Rob is pulling a conclusion that there is something fundamentally
wrong, someone took out the bulb because it was illuminated, and then sold
the car. No one ever really checks, because there is no emissions test in
That might be a stretch. It could be the bulb is bad, or maybe the car
used to belong to Rob.
Clarence A Dold - Hidden Valley Lake, CA, USA GPS: 38.8,-122.5
Ok so on my lunch break I went at traded cars with my wife and checked
it out. All of the lights that come on when you turn the key to the on
position are the same that show up when the car dies. I took the car
to the local auto part store and had them hook up the OBD II scanner
and checked it. The OBD II scanner did not report any problems. It
seems to happen as soon as I put my foot on the gas while in reverse,
it does not stutter or slowly die, It just suddenly shuts-off.
My '03 Ford Escape dies when I shift it into reverse.
It dies as soon as I put my foot on the gas while
These are two different stories. Which is true?
Not 2 different stories, he's just looking a bit closer now, and trying to
more info. This is starting to sound like an IAC concern. I've seen newer
that, when the IAC first started to get sticky, were more prone to stalling in
than drive. I don't know why, but it happens quite often. Escapes are just a bit
my time at the dealership, but I don't imagine the technology has changed much.
Richard, Does it die if you hold your foot on the brake and just shift into
without lifting your foot from the brake or touching the gas pedal? Or does it
only when depressing the gas in reverse. In your normal routine of starting the
vehicle and backing up, these little variations can offer clues.
Does the vehicle have a tachometer (RPM meter)? What does it read at idle with
shifter in PARK. What does it read idling in DRIVE? Factory tachs tend to read
roughly, so look close and calculate the finer increments between the numbers in
head. The Idle speed in PARK is important.
Try and "two foot it". Hold your left foot firmly on the brake and use your
foot to bring up the engine speed SLIGHTLY (to about 1200RPM) before shifting
Reverse. It only takes a slight nudge on the pedal to do this. Does it still
If it stays running while you hold the engine speed up a bit, then the Idle
Control solenoid is the likely culprit. If it stalls, then the problem is beyond
scope of this group and you need to see a professional.
Get this information to us and we'll go from there.
Ok so over the weekend I drove my wifes escape around some more and it
seems to be the idle. when the car is shifted into reverse the idle
drops but if quickly I place my foot gently on the gas it raises the
RPMs and it doesn't die. While playing around with it it actually does
the same when shifting from reverse to drive. if I don't give it gas
soon enough then the tachometer drops and the car dies.
Sounds like the idle air control valve and/or the EGR pressure feedback
sensor. I've had to replace both on my '02 Escape V6, and I only have 45K
miles on it. The IAC was $55 and the EGR sensor was $25 at Rockauto.com.
Made a world of difference in mine.
Perfect diagnostic procedure for an automotive newbie, Rich! That's the
we needed. Thanks. Your Idle Air Control Solenoid is not working.
If you are a bit handy with tools, you can buy the part from the Ford parts
and replace it. They will ask for the calibration code, it's found on a tag on
drivers door jamb. (It may take a couple of trips from the parts counter to your
to get all of the info). Once you have the part in hand, find it on the top side
your engine and replace it. It may be hidden under a large plastic shroud.
If you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself, a trusted independent shop
it for you. I usually recommend the Dealer, but in this case an Indy will do
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