How do I change Rear Cab Window 90 F150

On Apr 16, 2:24=A0am, danny...@nospam.com wrote:

"I'm hoping I dont have to remove, and/or replace
the entire window (all 4 pieces of glass). "

That's what you have to do.
 You pull out the entire assembly, then disassemble it. Good luck
finding a used one. Good sliders disappear quick in the junkyards.
 Sliding rear windows are a lot like upfit parts on conversion vans,
motor homes, etc. Finding parts is often a futile effort. You might
want to look into a complete window asy. from your local accessory
shop.

On Wed, 16 Apr 2008 05:58:57 -0700 (PDT), Tom Adkins wrote:

  They aren't meant to come out easily, or it would make breaking into
the truck childs play.  There's usually a non-obvious way to take
apart the tracks and move the slot open.  (I sure wouldn't put it up
in a public forum to instruct the crooks...)


  It's theoretically possible to fix it on the truck IF you have
fourteen hands and can work in 3D from both sides...  It'll be a WHOLE
lot simpler to dismount the window and have it flat on the bench with
a nice chunk of carpet as padding, and you can apply force as needed
without breaking something else.

  The key to the solution is the thin rubber wedge strips and the trim
garnish strips on the glass surrounds, you remove them to get some
slack in the main rubber gasket.  Then the main gasket can be folded
/just/ enough to get the glass in and out of the frame, one side at a
time.

  And there are many tricks to getting it to pop in, like polyethylene
plastic wedges and strips that won't chip the glass, wedging a piece
of rope into the glass channel and pull the rope to use as a zipper,
etc.  And various magic lubricants.  I don't claim to know them all,
but people who run auto glass shops sure do - they can have them in
and out in 10 minutes.


  They may be able to order a new piece of glass, there are companies
overseas still making replacement window glass for vintage and antique
cars.  They can also order the piece custom-cut and tempered from a
local glass foundry, but the minimum charge can be $75 - 100.  If you
can track down other people that need that particular glass, you can
run several at once to meet the minimum order and cut the price.

  A complete new aftermarket slider might be less expensive than
fixing the old one.   Investigate all options before deciding.

  --<< Bruce >>--

On Wed, 16 Apr 2008 08:37:31 -0700, Bruce L. Bergman


Thanks for the advice.
Lets say I want to remove the whole slider window.  How do I do it?
I'm assuming there are some sort of clips on the inside, is that
correct?  Then I imagine the window comes off on the outside.  

I suppose I'll have to remove it and then fix it.  I am also
considering seeing if I can cut some plexiglass to fit in there.  It
looks to be a possibility.  I made a temporary patch out of 1/8"
masonite wood.  After cutting the shape, it fit in there pretty well,
although I didn't waste a lot of time on it, and the piece of masonite
was a half inch too narrow to begin.  Duct tape solved that for the
moment, I just want to keep out rain (and my farm cats) for now.

This is a farm truck, so I dont want to spend a lot of money on it,
but I do need to get some kind of window in there.  Maybe plexiglass
would be a better solution anyhow, since it seems more durable????
Some silicone caulk around the edges does wonders too.

Dan

On Wed, 16 Apr 2008 14:08:46 -0500, dannydee@nospam.com wrote:



   Haven't taken one out, but IIRC they are the same design - there's
a wedge strip in a slot of the main surround gasket, just like the
little rubber strip that holds the window screen in the screen frame.
When you pop out the strip, the gasket will flex enough to pop out of
the hole in the car body.

  Sometimes the chrome garnish trim around the window is shoved into
the slot along with the wedge strip, so you take it off first.

  Whenever working with glass, be somewhat gentle with it.  It will
take some serious bending or compressive stress to break it, but you
do NOT want to chip the edges, especially on tempered.  The chip can
start a crack on plain or laminated glass.

  And tempered glass doesn't just crack or scratch (like with a glass
cutter) it shatters.  Funny stuff, the center core is under pressure
and the outer surfaces under tension, part of the cooling process.
The stresses relieve themselves by shattering into crumbs.

  They make special tools for glass installers, a lot of plastic
coatings and HDPE wedges and hooks, etc.  Everything metal is padded,
and sharp points are shrouded.  You don't want an "Oops Moment" on a
$500 windshield you have to replace if broken.  If you use regular
tools, tape everything.


  Farm truck?  Well, why didn't you say so!!  That makes it easier.

  Go get a chunk of Lexan® (polycarbonate sheet) the right size, cut
to exact size with a saber saw, and make a replacement window for the
slider out of that - it'll work just fine and be just as safe.

  You just have to be more careful when cleaning the windows to NEVER
WIPE IT WHEN DRY or it'll scratch all to heck.  Plexiglas® (acrylic
sheet) is cheaper and will work, but it's much easier to scratch.

  --<< Bruce >>--

On Wed, 16 Apr 2008 01:24:04 -0500, dannydee@nospam.com
wrote:


I can't tell you how to remove the factory slider window
but, if you can get it out, it is likely that a local auto
glass shop can cut a replacement for it.  Most of them keep
common templates so they can cut instead of stocking
hundreds of different panes. If you get the whole window
out, you can use the good side as a template IIRC on that
one.   If one side is already out, you have little to lose
if you do further damage it. Either way, it has to come out.

Now, about removing the whole window, every time I have seen
them removed from an F150 of that vintage, the window is
simply pushed out from the inside of the cab - no locking
strip.  To replace it, put the gasket on the window
assembly, use a piece of plastic clothsline cord wrapped
around the inside groove of the gasket. Lube it up good with
a spray silicone lubricant and place one end in the cab
opening.  Have the ends of the clothesline on the end that
you initially insert.  You need someone on the outside to
keep even pressure on it while the person inside pulls the
ends of the cord forward.  This pulls the inside flap of the
gasket through the opening and brings the window with it.
If you have it lubed well, it will position itself.  Just be
sure to pull both ends of the cord across evenly and keep
even pressure on the outside.  If you live near a truck
accessories store or don't mind mail order, you can get a
full frame slider which I like better than the OEM and
installs easier for less than factory parts.  Sometimes, you
can get a complete full frame slider cheaper than you can
get a pane for the factory window.  All that said, even a
pro who does it every day will occasionally have a bit of
bad luck with glass.

I am sure there is another way to skin this cat but, I've
not seen it.  I would hit the local auto glass dealer before
anything else.  Any way you go is going to cost money - it's
just a matter of how muck.

Good luck

Lugnut

wrote:


  That will work and be less money - but only windows made from flat
glass, and you can only get that in Laminated, not Tempered.  To you
it doesn't matter, unless someone tries shoving a body part through
the window instead of a 2X4...

  Plain glass makes sharp shards when it breaks, and you'll spend
hours in the ER with a Doctor or RN finding and picking them out.
Tempered glass makes far safer crumbs with few sharp edges, it just
gets out of the way.  It's worth the extra money, if only on the off
chance the one that gets hurt is you.

  --<< Bruce >>--

On Thu, 17 Apr 2008 10:12:11 -0700, Bruce L. Bergman


You are correct.  That is why I suggest an auto glass shop.
They stock the proper glass for side and rear windows.  Many
of them specialize in restoration glass for older vehicles.
Tempered glass is also used in many business and residential
applications.

Lugnut

  Right - but you keep saying "they can cut" and "they stock the
proper glass" like they can just zip one out of a sheet and be done -
and they simply can't, not if you need tempered glass.

  The only stuff that a glass shop can cut themselves locally is going
to be plain float glass.  Or laminated float glass (for old motorhome
and bus windshields) if they have a sheet.  Float glass DOES NOT meet
the current Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards, hasn't since
roughly 1965 - 1970.

  If you need a piece of tempered for a side or rear window the local
glass shop either has popular ones in stock or will order it in from a
windshield producer like PPG or Glazurrit.  For old cars, AGP -
Argentine Glass Products.  (They still ship lots of 1940's and 50's
vintage American Car windshields and side glass to Cuba and the Third
World where old cars are still in daily use...)

  Tempered glass has to be cut to exact size, bent if necessary (in a
big kiln into a metal mold or specially formed depression in a base of
sand), then tempered.

  And for a windshield they take the two sheets and laminate them
together with a special plastic layer in the middle.

  Once it's tempered, you are not going to cut it again, EVER.  I know
of a fool who kept buying up old TV cabinets and coffee table tops for
the glass, trying every method he could think of to cut them down to
the size he wanted - wet diamond tile saws, scribes, hot wire...  And
every attempt ended in the totally predictable shatter 'disaster'.

   --<< Bruce >>--