How do u disable A/C in Taurus??

I have a 1996 Taurus 3.0l Vulcan engine, and I want to disable the A/C for the winter months, so I can enjoy more cabin heat. I found out that when you
select the defrost, defrost/floor, floor, or vents/floor setting, the heat output is lessened because the blowing air is mixed with air from the A/C. This is so the blown air is de-humidified...great idea, but the blown air is considerably colder than if you select the" vents only" setting, which gives you direct outside air that is heated, and is not mixed with the A/C.
So....if there is a way to simply disable the A/C, all blowing air selections will be heated outside air, which will give you hotter air for your feet and the defrost. Now, if there is an electrical plug to disconnect the A/C, where would I locate it under the hood? I'll just re-connect the plug in the spring, so I can have A/C to cool the cabin. Please be specific...a diagram or picture would be very helpful. Do you think disconnecting this plug will set off any trouble codes, or will do any harm to the A/C system?
I'm freezin' up here in Canada, and we can use all the heat we can get.
TTTTThanks
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
RZ wrote:

It's easy to do this, but I think you will be disappointed with the fogging in the vehicle.
Simply pull the connector to the A/C clutch.
The A/C cycling during the winter help keep up the system integrity, too... seals & Lubrication, etc.
Rob
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Or flush your heater core......Its plugged or it would give you more then enough heat with the a/c on
Johan

for
you
heat
A/C.
air is

gives
for
so I

picture
will
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
johanb wrote:

Good point - I forgot that this is a notorious vehicle for this ailment - and it's 9 years old!
Rob
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I'd just unplug it from the Compressor. You shouldn't get any codes or damage anything.
If you plan on keeping it, just splice a wire into one of the plug wires and put a switch inside. Hank
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

damage
and
There a b*tch to reach, just unplug the pressure switch
Johan
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 09 Jan 2005 21:08:08 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@aol.committed (Ninebal310) wrote:
~I'd just unplug it from the Compressor. You shouldn't get any codes or damage ~anything. ~ ~If you plan on keeping it, just splice a wire into one of the plug wires and ~put a switch inside. ~Hank
Would pulling the A/C fuse do the same thing, I think it would have a spearate fuse for just the A/C (or maybe not?)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
outside 40' or colder air or air passing through a 40' evaporator coil.
your logic is defective.
return your brain to its lock box, you are not using it properly

you
is
gives
I
will
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
[This followup was posted to alt.autos.ford and a copy was sent to the cited author.]
says...

Usually, the compressor only runs when in Defrost mode, and maybe defrost/floor. It should NOT run in floor or floor/vent mode.
Also, it usually only runs when the temperatures are above freezing. Before yanking wires, double-check and verify if it's even running on very cold days, or in floor modes.
--
If there is a no_junk in my address, please REMOVE it before replying!
All junk mail senders will be prosecuted to the fullest extent of the
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
RZ opined in

johanb is right, usually the pressure switch connector (on accumulator) is easier to get to..
and the others are right, as well, notorious for blockages, flush the core directly and also check the blend door for proper operation.
Check rad when cold; coolant should be at the filler cap
--
- Yes, I'm a crusty old geezer curmudgeon.. deal with it! -

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
In posted on Sun, 9 Jan 2005 08:41:48 -0600:

It is considerably colder, but it's not cold by any means. When it's 25 degrees here, I only have to set my heat to the very middle to remain comfortable running mine on MAX to recirculate cabin air. If I suck outside air, I may move it up a little toward heat, but I have NEVER run it on full heat before.
ANd if you cannot dry the air, you WILL regret it, especially on damp nights when the temperature is low and your windows start fogging up.

Even in Canada, I can't imagine it being so cold that a car's heater can't keep you warm. Perhaps your heater core is partially clogged. My '98 Sable had a clogged heater core. I got absolutely no heat at all, and it was insanely cold in the car when I had to run the air conditioner when it was 30 degrees outside just to do my best to keep the windows defogged. I would shiver all the way home during my 38-mile nightly highway commute.
Damaeus
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.