Which carb? 87 Motorhome with 460

I recently purchased a motorhome Class C 26' that has a 460 and a 650 Holley. Supposed to be an efficient economizer, but the truth is this carb runs really ragged. Further, I'm not so interested in economy that I wish to risk performance if I need it.

So....for you experts out there, I'd appreciate some feedback on what it "should" have on it. Of course, it would be nice to know what the stock carb for this motor was at the time as well.

Thank you, Steve in Montana

Reply to
Steve Hartman
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Steve, define 'runs really ragged'...

IMHO, a 650 may be too small for a 460 engine, though that may be a personal opinion only. You may find it does better with a 900 cfm carb (whether Holley or not doesn't really matter, does it?) or even a carb that is slighter larger than that.

But that assumes you are suffering from lack of torque, if the 'rough' is low end (idle/and low RPMs) then it may be something else.

Reply to
PeterD

I'm against holley's, just too many problems. See if there is an Edlebrock that's listed for it. They seem to work much better IMHO.

Reply to
Ashton Crusher

Ashton Crusher wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

I have never seen a edelbrock run worth a shit on a 460. It would have come stock with a 600 vaccume sec. holley. If it is running rough it probly has a intake manifold gasket leaking, a very common problem, fairly easy to replace. KB

Reply to
Kevin

Thank you all, and Kevin. When you say intake manifold gasker, are we talking manifold to block or carb to manifold?

I just pulled the cover on the engine (E-350) and see that the entire engine is really clean. However, I didn't notice a kickdown rod. Does this engine have one or use one? I ask because my performance really deteriorates when my engine lugs in DRIVE and I got to give it gas and it does not downshift automatically. I have to manually shift to second.

Steve in Montana

Reply to
Steve Hartman

"Steve Hartman" wrote in news:H2lTl.16481$ snipped-for-privacy@flpi144.ffdc.sbc.com:

Yes you should have a kick down rod. and the gasket between the manifold and the heads is the one that leaks. You have to pull the intake manifold off to replace it. It is a sandwitch gasket that is well known for leaking. the spray test should tell you for sure. it is charaterized by a rough idle but runs fine down the road. KB

Reply to
Kevin

My engine idles fine. It runs crummy. But then, it only runs crummy when it's under load. I really think it's the carb. I think it's a 650 spread bore. It also has an electric choke which apparently doesn't work. I also noticed that the carb bolts directly to the manifold. There is no plate, no valve, no smog on the vehicle at all. Then again, it IS Montana.....

Reply to
Steve Hartman

if your motorhome is big enough it may be considered a "medium duty truck" meaning "light truck" emissions requirements may not apply.

nate

Steve Hartman wrote:

Reply to
Nate Nagel

Sounds like somebody "fixed" it. Maybe you need to put it back to the stock configuration before you do anything else. If you can really skip smog testing issues check out non stock racing setups if you don't want to go stock. The problem often is folks rip out the smog mods without understanding what they are screwing up. The engine is tuned to have them in.

Reply to
nothermark

nothermark wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

In 87 the pkups had pretty much "stuck on" emissions stuff. If you really want to wake it up advance the cam timming 4 degrees. KB

Reply to
Kevin

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