I've turned this truck into a roadster (no roof) and no longer need to have
the AC compressor in the engine compartment.
All I want to do is get rid of the AC compressor, the other stuff doesn't
Can anybody provide information on what I'll need to do to get rid of the
Could this be as easy as just replacing the belt after pulling the
If so, what would be the PN for the replacement belt?
Same as the GM spec belt for this 4.3 V6?
Thanks for any help
If you don't turn the A/C on, the compressor uses (nearly) no HP -- but
if you want it out of there, Autozone (and lots of others) carry belts
for both A/C & non-A/C equipped 4.3s.
Just as an example, I searched the Autozone website, and a mid-priced
(about $20) Durlast belt part number (without A/C) is 940K6
Not affiliated with Autozone -- just a semi-satisfied customer,
I've got an 88 GMC safari van that needs an engine. I don't have
there is a junkyard offering one from an S-10. He says "just retain the
old oil pan."
Folks at work are telling lurid tales of bad jobs where the flywheel
How much do I have to worry about compatability? What are the VIN
should I take an hour drive to the junkyard to compare them?
When I see references to S-10 VIN x or w or z, Not only do I not know
one means, I don't have them on the old engine. Which digit is it
anyway? I've got
GKDM and JB.
I really like the van, and I've got too much 1930's values to see it go
to the shredder.
Nils K. Hammer
Nils - the VIN is the Vehicle Identification Number and it's located on the
dashboard on the driver's side, viewable from outside of the car looking
through the corner of the windshield. Here's cool tool to decode your VIN:
Look for the 5th to the last digit for the W or X or Z.
I'd disregard the talk about flywheels flying away. The flywheel does need
to be the right one for your vehicle and that is a bit complex. There are
different flywheels for standard transmissions and automatic transmissions,
and there are different ones within those two categories. Stick with your
series (W,X,Z) and you will likely be ok - but you can also double check
that with the dealer.
Swapping the engine out on a vehicle of that age is pretty straight forward.
It's more brute force than black magic like you'd find in today's cars.
Thanks a lot. I'll be using that VIN code thing again someday. A couple
of minutes after
I posted, I realized that I was not looking at the font right. In the
army we put a line on
the Z so it won't look like a 2. So it's a Z.
Sad thing now is, it isn't mine, and the owner won't put up with a new
he's had trouble in the past. I'm now selling it on Craigslist
I originally thought it was the headgasket, but the shop master said
you would not
get hydrolock unless something much worse was going on. I could still
start it and
drive until I replaced the lost coolant.
I'm still learning.
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