1988 S15 Jimmy - AC Removal

I've turned this truck into a roadster (no roof) and no longer need to have the AC compressor in the engine compartment. All I want to do is get rid of the AC compressor, the other stuff doesn't
eat HP. Can anybody provide information on what I'll need to do to get rid of the compressor? Could this be as easy as just replacing the belt after pulling the compressor? If so, what would be the PN for the replacement belt? Same as the GM spec belt for this 4.3 V6?
Thanks for any help
--

Ralph Shapiro
Rohnert Park, CA 94928
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Ralph Shapiro wrote:

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- If you don't turn the A/C on, the compressor uses (nearly) no HP -- but if you want it out of there, Autozone (and lots of others) carry belts for both A/C & non-A/C equipped 4.3s.
Just as an example, I searched the Autozone website, and a mid-priced (about $20) Durlast belt part number (without A/C) is 940K6
Not affiliated with Autozone -- just a semi-satisfied customer, Mark Sparge
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Just get the belt that is for your ride without the AC option. I just went thru the same thing with my buick. Easy job On Wed, 15 Feb 2006 06:53:43 -0800, "Ralph Shapiro"

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I've got an 88 GMC safari van that needs an engine. I don't have experience, but there is a junkyard offering one from an S-10. He says "just retain the old oil pan."
Folks at work are telling lurid tales of bad jobs where the flywheel flys away.
How much do I have to worry about compatability? What are the VIN letters, and should I take an hour drive to the junkyard to compare them?
When I see references to S-10 VIN x or w or z, Not only do I not know what each one means, I don't have them on the old engine. Which digit is it anyway? I've got GKDM and JB.
I really like the van, and I've got too much 1930's values to see it go to the shredder.
Nils K. Hammer
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Nils - the VIN is the Vehicle Identification Number and it's located on the dashboard on the driver's side, viewable from outside of the car looking through the corner of the windshield. Here's cool tool to decode your VIN:
http://www.analogx.com/cgi-bin/cgivin.exe
Look for the 5th to the last digit for the W or X or Z.
I'd disregard the talk about flywheels flying away. The flywheel does need to be the right one for your vehicle and that is a bit complex. There are different flywheels for standard transmissions and automatic transmissions, and there are different ones within those two categories. Stick with your series (W,X,Z) and you will likely be ok - but you can also double check that with the dealer.
Swapping the engine out on a vehicle of that age is pretty straight forward. It's more brute force than black magic like you'd find in today's cars.
--

-Mike-
snipped-for-privacy@alltel.net
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Thanks a lot. I'll be using that VIN code thing again someday. A couple of minutes after I posted, I realized that I was not looking at the font right. In the army we put a line on the Z so it won't look like a 2. So it's a Z.
Sad thing now is, it isn't mine, and the owner won't put up with a new engine, since he's had trouble in the past. I'm now selling it on Craigslist pittsburgh.
I originally thought it was the headgasket, but the shop master said you would not get hydrolock unless something much worse was going on. I could still start it and drive until I replaced the lost coolant.
I'm still learning.
Nils
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