90 Lumina 3.1 Eurosport- Stalls when braking @ redlight/stopsign

This car has sat awhile, but now it is almost running great minus a few issues.. First let me say i have ran new gas thru it, some reg and most premium
in the last few days since i got it running again.. I will try to detail as much as i can on the problems, i am a DIY mechanic and love challenges but this issue is kind of defeating me and i need some outside input..
It has new Plugs & Wires, coil pack,crankshaftsensor,air filter, oil filter, oil change, thermostat, battery,and muffler. The Coil pack was bad, before i replaced it the car made some huge back fires (at least 5) hence the new muffler. The motor sounds strong now, i have driven it a 100 or so mile but here is the deal, when i come to a stop it stalls. Not so much at first but after 10 minutes or half hour it wants to stall when braking and stopping. The motor will restart immediately and most times i can continue on but sometimes when it is restarted it run 10 times as bad, for instance it feels like it is out of time perhaps, spitting and sputtering hard just to get to 25mph. I have no "Check engine light"... I am at the end of my rope and looking for suggestions. Should i take the throttle body off and clean out all the carbon from backfiring and running on a bad coil pack? Should i start disassembling vacuum lines and look for wear or leaks?
Any information that can get me started in the right direction would be very appreciated. Thanks and good day.
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On 31 Jan 2005 10:13:09 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

What's the fuel level and does it run better when you first start it. ie can you stop and turn ok without problem when it's cold or is it consistent regardless of temp.
As the fuel pumps start to go in some GM's they act funny.
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It seems to go foul after it is warm, last night i did the whole "relearn the idle" process to a "T". All seemed to go well and just when i was about to turn it off it started sputterin. So, relearning the idle didnt do to much good.
So to answer your question precisely, it has a half a tank of new fresh premium fuel, and yes it runs fine for like the first half hour and then the problems come at intersections and stop signs. Last night i removed the air filter and checked all vacuum lines around the throttle body and all looked well. I am open to your suggestions and would like you to elaborate on your idea of fuel pump. Thanks...
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It seems to go foul after it is warm, last night i did the whole "relearn the idle" process to a "T". All seemed to go well and just when i was about to turn it off it started sputterin. ___________________________________________________
The described stalling may be unrelated to braking because it does not always happen during braking, but it always happens at throttle idle. If so, it may be caused by a sticking idle air control valve or a confused throttle position sensor.
Wendy & John. __________________________________________________
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It seems to go foul after it is warm, last night i did the whole "relearn the idle" process to a "T". All seemed to go well and just when i was about to turn it off it started sputterin. So, relearning the idle didnt do to much good.
So to answer your question precisely, it has a half a tank of new fresh premium fuel, and yes it runs fine for like the first half hour and then the problems come at intersections and stop signs. Last night i removed the air filter and checked all vacuum lines around the throttle body and all looked well. I am open to your suggestions and would like you to elaborate on your idea of fuel pump. Thanks...
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On 1 Feb 2005 07:11:25 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

The in-tank pumps rely upon the fuel to cool them. As they age and either the fuel level becomes low (sometimes also apparent around 1/3 rd tank under braking or taking a highway on ramp, for example, the rail pressure will drop as the pump efficiency drops.
The engine then sputters (may even stall & die). There are two solutions to your problem, if this is your problem:
a) install new pump, filter and strainer (recommended solution)
b) keep the fuel level up, and don't make high fuel demands on a partial tank (hard acceleration on highway ramps). (this is what i've been doing for the past 20,000 miles as my pump slowly dies).
With mine running a full tank I've got about 2 hours of continuous running in the summer @ 70MPH before it begins to act up. Then it's 1 hour, 1/2 hour, 15 min etc... In the winter with an ice cold 0' tank it goes 3+ hours without a hitch.
Thing you've gotta ask yourself is this: "can you live with it as it is?" no = spend what it takes to fix, or get another car. yes = run it till it finally craps out or becomes unmanageable (then you'll easily identify the weak part). (call it discount diagnosis).
best of luck.
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I had a similar problem on my Astro Van. It would tarted fine and ran fine until I came up to a red light and it wold almost immediately die. Took to a local dealership and he eplaced the pump. Did not solve problem. Took it back to service center and he made up some feeble excuse about Astro Vans having some sort of wire (design defect from the factory) in the tank that would cause the pump to burn out. He kep it for a week and said it never turned off.
I later found the EGR to be the culprit. It would stay opened!!! Replaced it and VIOLA! Never had a problem since.
BTW, I never had any of my vehicles serviced at the shop that misdiagnoised my van.
Good Luck!
Jesse
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The problem could be a bad crankshaft sensor. I had the same symptoms on a 92 Lumina 3.1, and a new sensor fixed it. Roy

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I have the same car and had the same prob with mine. I took it to 4 shops and they told me that it would cost in upwards of $800 to possibly fix it with no garentees. itwas put on eletronic machines and found numerous things that may be the prob. until i took it too a shade tree machanic. He took care of my prob. All we did was test sensors and clean and test injectors with on injector tesing good when the car was cold and bad when it was warmed up. I have never heard of such a thing , but it could be that simple. Good luck hope you can get it going.
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It's a different car, different engine but same problem. I had a 1985 Celebrity Eurosport with the 2.5 and the problem turned out to be a temp. sensor that was sending erroneous info to the ECM.
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% There are two classes of pedestrians in these days of reckless motor traffic - the quick and the dead. ~ Lord Dewar 1933 ~
Climbing into a hot car is like buckling on a pistol. It is the great equalizer. ~ Henry G. Felsen 1964 ~
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I had a problem with a different car and took me some time to figure it out. Just need to know one thing. When the car starts to act up and stall, will it stay running if you keep you foot just slightly on the gas pedal?? If the answer is yes then your problem is what's called the idle ait control valve (IAC Valve) just think of the name. what is does is this: when you have your foot off the gas pedal the butterfly plate in the trottle body closes all the way and there is no way for air to get thru, so this valve opens up and lets air by to keep the car running. If the valve gets full of carbon, dirt, or just fails your car will not idle.
Look at the top of the trottle body, when the gas cable connect to the engine and there should be a black round device. that is the valve. replace it or remove and clean(does not always work) and you should be fine.
BTW this valve does not give off a trouble code to the computer!!
See ya
Ray
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I had a problem with a different car and took me some time to figure it out. Just need to know one thing. When the car starts to act up and stall, will it stay running if you keep you foot just slightly on the gas pedal?? If the answer is yes then your problem is what's called the idle ait control valve (IAC Valve) just think of the name. what is does is this: when you have your foot off the gas pedal the butterfly plate in the trottle body closes all the way and there is no way for air to get thru, so this valve opens up and lets air by to keep the car running. If the valve gets full of carbon, dirt, or just fails your car will not idle.
Look at the top of the trottle body, when the gas cable connect to the engine and there should be a black round device. that is the valve. replace it or remove and clean(does not always work) and you should be fine.
BTW this valve does not give off a trouble code to the computer!!
See ya
Ray
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