Brakes Light & Cruise control

I have two new problems with my 1995 Chev. Monte Carlo. First, brake lights have quit working have checked fuse in fuse box and is Ok what next to Check? Secondly, When using cruise if I turn on park or head lights cruise
will dis-engage??
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Welcome to the wonderful world of Monte Carlo ownership. I have/had both these problems. The inoperative break lights is most likely the turn signal switch. Check to see if the CHMSL (thrid brake light) work, if it does and the lower two brake lights don't work, it's the turn signal switch, guaranteed.
The cruise control problem started like that for me. It would work, then I'd do some thing like turn lights on, turn wipers on etc. and it would disengage. Then after awhile it would just disengage for no reason. Now, it doesn't work at all. I did all the diagnosis steps. The final step I got to in the flow chart was "replace cruise control module." :(
Steve

lights
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The first thing I would check is the grounds and battery connections. Turning on a load could cause power noise causing your problem.

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Tks for info. regarding brake lights. thrid brake light does work, were do I find turn signal switch and what does it look like. Did you replace cruise control module or is that something a repair shop needs to do?
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The first thing is to learn to use a multimeter and read a wiring diagram for your car. Otherwise spend a fortune on guessing and changing parts.

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For now have used one of the hot wires for thrid light to light up brakes so I can drive car but now have other problems when I step on brakes, dash board lights,clock,etc dim. Also when pressing brake petal front signal lights go on.The right turn signal only works if back for high beams. Have bought multimeter. Was told could be signal switch but be cautious removing because of air bag is involed in replacement.
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Just replace your signal switch and get it over with. This problem is no common, so I found out recently, I called the Stealership for a price and he rhymed it off like it was his phone number. I asked how he knew the price without even looking it up, he said they keep 6 in stock because it's such a common replacement item and people are always looking for them..
Put your DVM away and go buy: 1. Haynes or Chilton's (even factory service manual if you are serious enough) 2. Steering wheel puller. 3. Lock plate removal tool. 4. Turn signal switch (AC Delco p/n D6214A with steering wheel controls or D6226A without, GM p/n 19005031 without steering wheel controls, approximately $68.38US, or 19005032 with steering wheel controls, approximately $92.69US)
Steve
PS - It sounds like you may have messed around with the wires and put +12VDC some where it wasn't designed to go. If you didn't own a DVM before this, stick to just replacing parts rather than trying to rewire the car. Not trying to be a d***, just trying to make sure you don't mess something up and make your car inoperable.
If you put +12VDC to the brake lights from somewhere else, say directly off the brake switch, the rear signals will not work because you have essentially bypassed the flasher. So now you have +12VDC going into the rear lights and if you didn't disconnect the other end, just spliced in, now you're sending +12VDC back through the flasher/signal swtch etc. and basically bypassing all engineering that went into designing the system to work properly.
I'm tired, not sure what I'm babbling, just put the wires back and replace the turn signal switch.
Steve

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oops, correction here, it's "so common" not "no common". Frig, I should proof read better.
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Did the deed myself not long ago on a 91 Regal. Very easy job. Manual said I had a locking plate to deal with but they were wrong. If you do the job here is a hint, cut old wires where you can for easier removal from column and put new harness outside of column instead of trying to put back inside the column like the factory ( which is impossible ). Good luck On Tue, 14 Jun 2005 23:18:43 -0400, "Steve Mackie"

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Oh my. Not sure why you wouldn't have to touch the lock plate. Cutting the wires for the old switch is a good idea, but don't cheat and run the new one outside the column, that's just stupid. It's not impossible to run the wires in the factory location, it's actually quite simple, not sure why you had trouble.
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Well on the end of the harness from the switch there is an electrical female connector about an inch or so wide which made it very difficult to fish back through the column. Doing it the way I did saved a lot of work and when it was done it looked and worked purrrfect.As far as the lock plate is concerned , ( what was showed in the manual ) it just wasn't there. If you don't have the specific shop manual from Dealer they can be very non specific because they tend to cover many years and models. I had just the main nut , washer and switch if memory serves me correctly . Cheers
On Wed, 15 Jun 2005 07:27:47 -0400, "Steve Mackie"

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So not impossible. Take some pride in the work you do. Stand back and say "I did a good job", not "there, it's done."
Steve
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I've come to the conclusion you are an idiot. Cheers On Wed, 15 Jun 2005 07:55:14 -0400, "Steve Mackie"

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No, idiot would imply that I am not smart. I am a dick, and I will not deny it if someone tells me.
There are two types of people in the world I don't have patience for, stupid people and lazy people.
Steve
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If you call yourself a dick you are not only an idiot but an imbecile as well. Over and out. On Wed, 15 Jun 2005 10:01:48 -0400, "Steve Mackie"

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Did the deed on a Regal, man you are sick!!! That's what kind of warped bastards buy GM crap!!
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Thanks for the info. Too bad about the name calling.Thanks also to talk about auto's web site for the service you provide.
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