Our 2003 Cavalier suddenly started to squeak from the passenger front
- itís more like a squawk - and not just around corners, or bumps, it
squawks loudly going straight ahead even over small pavement cracks!
Jiggling the body with the hood raised, the squawk seems to be coming
from the top of the strut tower. A few months ago, the front "hub
assembly" was replaced on that same side under warranty, although
that may be just coincidental. The car has 60,000 miles and had been
a leased vehicle before we bought it 2 years ago. The warranty lapsed
a couple of months ago!
Whatís most likely the problem? And what is needed to fix it?
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Try spraying with a rubber spray, here in Australia, our holdens have the
same problem. Or you could replace the polyurethyne rubber buff that sits on
the top of the strut housing. They wear out and go hard which causes the
squeaking. Damn annoying. Before undoing the top part of the strut, jack up
and use proper clamp, that hold the springs.
End cap bearing on the strut. Common problem. You'll have to remove the
strut from the car, and disassemble the strut to replace the bearing.
Removing the strut is easy enough for anyone with decent skills and tools,
but disassembling the strut requires a really good spring compressor setup,
and some understanding of the amount of spring tension you're working with.
The hub and the strut bearing failures are purely coincidental.
Thanks guys! So is replacing the "strut mounting plate" the common
garage repair? Iíve read thereís a bearing inside that commonly
siezes due to GMís poor design. But rather than doing the labour to
replace just the bearing, the whole mounting plate assembly is swapped
out. Also, I need to keep costs down - so is it reasonable just to
replace the mounting plate thatís failed (if thatís the problem), then
reassemble the old strut without replacing it or the mounting plate on
the other side that hasnít failed yet? It would save $70 Canadian to
have both done now as the cost of one alignment is that amount, but
the mounting plates are $80 each and the labour cost would double.
How long do the mounting plates last????
Donít worry - Iím a DIY - but unless itís a simple bolt off - bolt on
fix - like brake rotors and pads - Iím not going to tackle it.
As for lubricating the rubber mount, Iím tempted to try that. But
with the Krown rustproofing, the strut assembly is still dripping oil
- and thereís plenty of rain in a Canadian spring. In fact, it may
have been water getting into the bearing that caused it to seize,
again assuming thatís the problem.
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All you need to replace is the bearing. No need to replace the cap. Won't
serve any purpose. As far as what you do in total, there is no need to
replace anything but the bearing unless the mileage is upwards of 100,000
miles. At that point it might well be worth changing the struts.
Then you won't want to tacke any more of this than removing the strut
assembly from the car. Take it somewhere to have the strut compressed and
the bearing swapped out.
Tommy, pay special attention to Mike M's WARNING: Do not attempt disassy. or
reassy. of strut w/out specialized equipment. Us diy'ers, including me,
usually don't need it enough to purchase such a setup. Without it, it can
be a dangerous attempt. sdlomi2
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