1995 accord

car dies when driving it down the road. sometimes it will go a week without doing it then like this week it did three times and now it wont start. have heard to change igniter, coil, distributer. just want
it up and running. your suggestions will be appreciated.
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pjracer wrote:

Depends a bit on mileage and what country you're in.
Have you checked whether your car was part of the big ignition switch recall? You can also set up an account with American Honda's Ownerlink site, here: https://www.ahm-ownerlink.com/login.asp?page=%2Fprod%5Fhome%2Easp You'll also be able to view any Recalls or TSB's specifically for your vehicle.
'Curly
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pjracer wrote:

when they get to be like 10 years old.They got a tendency to work sometimes then not, I heard its from after they heat up they jus quit workin.Then after a few hours of sittin they start right up. Have u checked for spark? Are you gettin fuel? Have you checked if you got fuel to your fuel rail? Check all under hood fuses? How olds your battery?
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Could be several things, but as others say, the coils, igniters and ignition switch are notorious for dying as you describe. If the dying occurs after warmup, then my money is on the igniter being failed. Only buy an OEM coil. Aftermarket ones do not last one. Consider changing the igniter at the same time, since an aged coil can have detrimental effects on the igniter.
The ignitor and coil are integral (literally) to the distributor, being built right on its housing. It's inaccurate to say "the distributor is failing." Not to be persnickety but more to promote good communications so as to get your car running a.s.a.p.
Tegger's famous page http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#startrun should help narrow this down a lot.

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Post-o The coil is very likely to be the culprit if the car was dying only after warmup.
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Elle4/28/08 11:54uqmRj.105448$ snipped-for-privacy@newsfe14.phx

if it is an aftermarket rotor. Rotors that are poorly made can develop a "tunnel" through the plastic and allow the coil spark to short directly to the distributor shaft. The reason it happens when warm and not cold is because the tunnel gets bigger when warm. This tip was straight from Honda's Tech Line in the 1980's when I worked in a shop. The customer had spent well over a $1000 throwing parts at it at a non-dealer shop. When he finally brought it to us we fixed it with Tech Lines help for $14. The symptoms exhibited were the same if I am reading the OP description correctly.
The problem rotor was a Honda rotor which came from a batch made with a defective molding process. I suspect that Honda rotors will not have this problem again but aftermarket rotors probably will.
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