Ford Escape dies when I Reverse


I am having a problem with my '03 Ford Escape where it dies when I
shift it into reverse. It doesn't do it every time probably 2 out of 5
times. I brought it into the ford dealership to have them look at it
but of course it didn't do it while it was in the shop so they just
checked the throttle-body, fuel injectors and changed the fuel filter,
3 days after I got it back from the shop it started doing it again.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Rich
Reply to
richard.marlatt
Did they try to pull any fault codes for the OBD II (the computers in the truck)? Was check engine light on? (I think you would have told us if it were, but I am just asking.)
Jeff
Reply to
Jeff
They didn't say whether or not they pulled any fault codes for the OBD II. When I shift it into reverse it will just die and the Oil, Transmission, and Battery light come on, but not the check engine light.
Reply to
richard.marlatt
Is it hard or expensive to replace the CEL lamp? We did pay for the extended warranty should something like that be covered under it?
rich
Reply to
richard.marlatt
It sure should be if it is a covered repair.
Insist that it should be covered under any factory emissions warranty first, then look into the extended, and still call it an "emissions" issue or they might turn you down because it's a burned out bulb(bulbs are not ordinarily covered).
Get out your paperwork and read up - each warranty company has about 3 different levels of coverage. The bulb is about $1.00, but the labor to replace it can be $$$. You have a bigger problem, than the bulb, though.
Get the emissions system fixed.
Find out why the bulb is out or disconnected.
What state do you live in? Have you had a DMV emissions test done?
Rob
Reply to
trainfan1
I live in WA and my county doesn't require emission testing. So what does this bulb do? and why would it cause my escape to turn off only when I go in reverse?
Thanks Rich
Reply to
richard.marlatt
"CEL" = "Check Engine Light"
...or in the case of the Escape, "SES" = "Service Engine Soon"
Read all about it here on page 10:
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formatting link
Rob
Reply to
trainfan1
It's not the burned bulb that is causing your car to stall in reverse, it is the bulb being burned out, if that is indeed correct, that is not warning you that something is amiss in your powertrain management system.
The point the other poster was making is probably if the techs did not see a bulb shining, they may have ignored scanning for them. In which case I would start going to another dealer. That is usually the first thing I would do and I'm just a car owner/driver.
Good luck
Reply to
sleepdog
And, correct me if I am wrong, but useful information that may help the OP can be found by scanning the system even if the light is not on (I mean, assuming the bulb is not burnt out and is properly connected).
Jeff
Reply to
Jeff
I think Rob is pulling a conclusion that there is something fundamentally wrong, someone took out the bulb because it was illuminated, and then sold the car. No one ever really checks, because there is no emissions test in your area.
That might be a stretch. It could be the bulb is bad, or maybe the car used to belong to Rob.
Reply to
dold
Ok so on my lunch break I went at traded cars with my wife and checked it out. All of the lights that come on when you turn the key to the on position are the same that show up when the car dies. I took the car to the local auto part store and had them hook up the OBD II scanner and checked it. The OBD II scanner did not report any problems. It seems to happen as soon as I put my foot on the gas while in reverse, it does not stutter or slowly die, It just suddenly shuts-off.
Rich
Reply to
richard.marlatt
wrote:
My '03 Ford Escape dies when I shift it into reverse. ____________________________________________
wrote:
It dies as soon as I put my foot on the gas while in reverse. ___________________________________________
These are two different stories. Which is true?
Rodan.
Reply to
Rodan
Not 2 different stories, he's just looking a bit closer now, and trying to provide more info. This is starting to sound like an IAC concern. I've seen newer vehicles that, when the IAC first started to get sticky, were more prone to stalling in reverse than drive. I don't know why, but it happens quite often. Escapes are just a bit after my time at the dealership, but I don't imagine the technology has changed much.
Richard, Does it die if you hold your foot on the brake and just shift into reverse, without lifting your foot from the brake or touching the gas pedal? Or does it die only when depressing the gas in reverse. In your normal routine of starting the vehicle and backing up, these little variations can offer clues. Does the vehicle have a tachometer (RPM meter)? What does it read at idle with the shifter in PARK. What does it read idling in DRIVE? Factory tachs tend to read very roughly, so look close and calculate the finer increments between the numbers in your head. The Idle speed in PARK is important. Try and "two foot it". Hold your left foot firmly on the brake and use your right foot to bring up the engine speed SLIGHTLY (to about 1200RPM) before shifting into Reverse. It only takes a slight nudge on the pedal to do this. Does it still stall? If it stays running while you hold the engine speed up a bit, then the Idle Speed Control solenoid is the likely culprit. If it stalls, then the problem is beyond the scope of this group and you need to see a professional. Get this information to us and we'll go from there.
Reply to
Tom Adkins
Ok so over the weekend I drove my wifes escape around some more and it seems to be the idle. when the car is shifted into reverse the idle drops but if quickly I place my foot gently on the gas it raises the RPMs and it doesn't die. While playing around with it it actually does the same when shifting from reverse to drive. if I don't give it gas soon enough then the tachometer drops and the car dies. Rich
Reply to
richard.marlatt
Sounds like the idle air control valve and/or the EGR pressure feedback sensor. I've had to replace both on my '02 Escape V6, and I only have 45K miles on it. The IAC was $55 and the EGR sensor was $25 at Rockauto.com. Made a world of difference in mine.
SC Tom
Reply to
SC Tom
Perfect diagnostic procedure for an automotive newbie, Rich! That's the description we needed. Thanks. Your Idle Air Control Solenoid is not working. If you are a bit handy with tools, you can buy the part from the Ford parts counter and replace it. They will ask for the calibration code, it's found on a tag on the drivers door jamb. (It may take a couple of trips from the parts counter to your car to get all of the info). Once you have the part in hand, find it on the top side of your engine and replace it. It may be hidden under a large plastic shroud.
If you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself, a trusted independent shop can do it for you. I usually recommend the Dealer, but in this case an Indy will do just fine.
Reply to
Tom Adkins

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