2003 Honda Accord 4 cyl gas mileage on the highway

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On Sat, 10 Sep 2005 21:49:11 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@nospam.com (Dave) wrote:


Possibly a difference between US and EU tunes
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flobert wrote:

Exactly what does this entail? And doesn't traffic interfere with your careful anticipation? People doing a constant 50 around here are in danger of being crushed by Yugos running on one cylinder.
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My Datsun roadster had a manual throttle lock. I'd get to cruising speed, pull the knob, and there I was... Mechanical Cruise Control.
Same thing for a few bucks on motorcycles, some sort of flip-lock on the throttle. http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/invisible.html
On roughly level ground, it worked just fine. A freeway overpass would knock some speed off, and down the other side would overspeed, but overall it was a pretty decent thing.
Logically, one might do the same thing with an electronic cruise control. As my Civic starts up a grade, I have two choices: I can let the cruise control maintain the speed, including over 5000 RPM, or I can kill the cruise control. If it's a long grade, I let it run whatever RPM it wants. If it's a minor grade, I kill it.
If there was some tolerance, allowing the speed to drop, programmed for a typical overpass, cruise control could be more efficient. People without cruise control are probably losing speed at that point anyway, so they would never notice.
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Clarence A Dold - Hidden Valley (Lake County) CA USA 38.8,-122.5
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wrote:

Oh, I agree. I would like the option to be a throttle lock instead of a cruise lock.
And with computers, it ought to be that easy.
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flobert wrote:

i was kinda disappointed in the mileage my 98 civic CX got going from LA to laughlin nevada and back.
if i would have taken it easy and cruised with traffic at 70-75mph, i might have gotten more than my usual 32mpg.
but no- i had a lead foot. some of it wasnt my fault.. some grades are so steep i had to drop it into fourth and floor it just to keep at 80mph. 5th gear was useless, the car couldnt keep up. speedo kept dropping, even with it floored.
and of course, i had the A/C blasting in that 114 degree desert heat, too. the mojave desert gets damned hot during the day.
so to reiterate: thats uphill, several thousand foot climbs (2000-5000 feet at a time), A/C blasting, pedal to the metal in 4th gear, doing 80mph uphill. and the temp gauge stayed below halfway! thank gawd for mobil1 5w30.
downside? 25mpg.
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It was probably the A/C and the desert heat that sapped a lot of the power. In 4th gear, while climbing mountain (in Hamshire & Vermont) I'm able to maintain 105 mph, but that's on a nice cool (65 degree) day with no AC equipped. If you're racing up a hill and your speed is under 100mph, 3rd would be the preferred gear, instead of 4th. While climbing a particularly steep hill in 3rd gear at high speed, frequently I'd have to pass on the right (those pick-up drivers have a lot of attitude, especially when there's a small car bugging their ass on the left lane).
30 mpg is about right for aggressive driving situation and slowing the speed down to 50 mph would return a huge improvement on fuel consumption (like 40 mpg or 50mpg on a cool day with fairly level grade).
Also, after 250,00km of driving, I've yet to see my temperature gage go beyond the 2/5 mark. The big engine compartment with lots of free space helps.
Pars 98 Civic Hatch

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Elmo P. Shagnasty wrote:

Not neccessarily. Cruise control increases the throttle opening for any slight incline. Practiced fuel economy drivers will let a little speed bleed of on modest uphill inclines and then let it build back up going down the other side.
For *most* drivers, cruise control can improve fuel economy. However, for those rare drivers who have studied the art of fuel economy maximization ... ya can do better.
John
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The dealership says my sister's rotors must be replaced 'because they're rusting'.
The CR-V has 60,000 km on it. Is this normal wear?
Your expert opinion is invited... thanks, Jack.
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Ha. Rust on the brake rotors' circumferences by itself are not detrimental to the rotor's operation and is expected.
Ask them about the rotor's thickness and thickness variation, for starters. Did they measure it? What's the spec? Make them elaborate a lot more than they are simply "rusted."
60k km is ridiculously early for a rotor to ordinarily need replacement.
My 91 Civic is on its original rotors after 270k km. Granted, I do a lot of engine braking, and one rotor is a bit scored. The thickness is great, though, and I expect them to last the life of the car (like five more years).
Others will post...

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Rotors are iron.
They rust.
Do this: let the car sit in damp weather for a weekend. Go out and look at the rotors.
Drive the car. Listen to the brakes for the first few stops. That's the sound of the rust grinding off.
Perfectly normal.
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Ralph wrote:

Hah hah. Potamkin in NYC, by any chance? Or another crook? They said that about mine (94 Civic), too, and when I got a look at them I laughed. Not in the guy's face--though I should have--because I was standing there with the seller and it was a pre-purchase checkup, but I did laugh privately later... (with the seller cuz I'm an honest guy)
Elle and Elmo are right on.
Abe
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60K km (40K miles) in how many years? You haven't provided that, and it's crucial.
You're obviously in Canada, but I don't know where. Northeastern Canada is the very worst place for brake rust on the planet.
The less you drive, the more rust forms, and the sooner they need replacing relative to your mileage. Elmo is right.
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TeGGeR

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
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Thanks for your insight.
Location - Ottawa. I think my sister's CR-V is about 2 years old.
Thanks again for writing - Jack.
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Ralph wrote:

BZZZZT! Yellow flag scam possibilities. Rust is not a reason to replace rotors. Insufficient thickness, deep groves and warping are all possible reasons for replacement.
Old story, old scam.
John
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<Rob> wrote in message

That's not surprising. I get similar mileage too with mine. Can do Dallas-Houston-Dallas on one tank easy.
RAT
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Why not keep up with the pace of traffic rather then being an hazard?
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On Tue, 06 Sep 2005 06:30:25 -0500, Rob wrote:

I believe.
I get 32-33 per tank doing mostly freeway commuting, some at 80mph, some at 5mph, most somewhere in between, a little city driving at each end. That's by myself, no air, mostly, and with the automatic. Flat route, btw.
Been driving a mixed route with a 500 foot rise through the Sepulveda pass recently, ought to measure my mileage again, doesn't seem all that different.
J.
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wrote:

Seems a mile or two better!
J.
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i got 16km per litre last week on the highway in my 99 accord
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