88 CRX muffler no threads bolts question

Hey Guys, Here's the deal, am a girl and like to do minor repairs on my car. (such a high to get a problemed fixed myself), well, just noticed my muffler on my 88 CRX si has rusted out a rather large hole. So by
taking a look underneathe, it appeared that 2 bolts needed to be removed and the muffler and the small pipe leading to the front of the car would just come off. Well I have been trying for a long time to get those 2 bolts off. Wasted a lot of liquid wrench on them to no avail.....when I noticed the bolts do not have threads on them.
They have springs on the front of them and no threads on the back and are held on by 12 mm nuts. It's located right behind passenger side rear wheel, 2 pipes adjoin with an oval type gasket/connector thingy ma jig. What is this about? I am kind of annoyed at this point. It seemed like a simple 1,2, 3 job, but no.
Anyway, can you seasoned Honda guys give some advice? Is it possible to get the muffler off easily or should I just take it to the shop. Man I hate doing that. I really like fixing it myself. Anyway, thanks so much. Oh my car is 1988 Honda CRX Si all stock. 5 spd, 139k miles, 1.6 engine, red, black interior, sunroof, a small shopping car dent in the right fender....... :)
Smiles, Annette
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Use the penetrating oil "PB Blaster," spraying it as best you can onto the nuts threads. Capillary action will actually draw the PB Blaster into the thread region and break free some of the rust. Wait half an hour or so. Re-apply. Put a wrench on the nut and another wrench on the bolt. Turn the wrench on the nut.
Exhaust system nuts and bolts tend to freeze more than others on a car, due to the heat cycling and seeing moisture underneath the car from the road.
Once you free those two bolts/nuts, you're right the rest should come off pretty easily.
The car will sound funny but will be drivable. A muffler shop should have a suitable replacement. Get a new gasket for the flange you separated above.
Way to go, doing this yourself. It is indeed a great feeling.

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New bolts too. The nuts should be available in brass, copper-coated or similar rust-resistant alloy. Paint the threads liberally with Permatex Anti-Seize Lubricant or a similar product before reassembly. Get new rubber hangers. The pros heat the old nuts with a welding torch, or just burn them right off. A propane plumbing torch works OK, if you are patient and don't set yourself on fire. Heat the nuts, spray on Liquid Wrench, wait a while.
(Liquid Wrench, brand name, is a good product. There are many imitations, some not as good. PB Blaster is also good. WD40 is better for keeping water out of things, than as a penetrating oil.)
Earle
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lucky to live where I have recommendations to great shops.) The heat and rust make the hardware really stubborn, and the pieces tend to rust/weld themselves together also. Aargh!
However, it is possible if you are determined enough. Elle's advice will get you through, but I'd like to add that leather gloves are very valuable when working with the exhaust pieces. Cotton gloves are better than nothing. The edges tend to be sharp.
Mike
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