96 Accent Window Glue

My 1996 Accent GL has a problem with the passenger window. It rolls down ok (manual handle roll), but it tilts slightly toward the front end of the vehicle when it is rolled back up. I can easily use my
other hand to tilt it back level and finish rolling it up, but I'd rather have it work properly.
By partially removing the door panel and peering down into the door cavity, I traced the problem to one of the two adhesive points at the bottom of the window. They're spaced about 4 inches apart, and while the front-side one remains intact, the rearward one appears to have become unglued.
My question is, what kind of adhesive can I apply to that rear bracket that will hold in all conditions? Where I live, we have temperature ranges from -40 celcius to +35 celcius, and I've noticed the problem is worse in hot weather.
Thoughts?
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Hyundai has a TSB on this issue and recommends 3M channel bonding and sidelite adhesive (051135-08641). To assist, you may want the applicator and nozzle (051135-08191, 051135-08197). If you cannot locate this, you may wish to try some epoxy.
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On Mon, 03 Jul 2006 12:45:47 -0400, "hyundaitech"

I'd go with a urethane or RTV first. You have a fairly large differential expansion between glass and plastic or metal so you need something that gives a bit. Epoxy doesn't stretch much so something breaks.
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Good info on both counts. Thank you very much. Regarding the applicator and nozzle for the 3M product, it is a fairly narrow gap, but I am able to roll the window up fully and access the brackets with the door panel partially removed. So, hopefully, I will be able to feed the compound into the crevise without splattering adhesive all over the inside and outside of the door... that wouldn't be so good.
Regarding the differences between epoxy and urethane and RTV, I noticed that the front bracket (the one that didn't fail) was still bonded to the glass with some black glue that was rubbery and slightly malleable... at least the little bit that was pressed out around the bracket. On the other hand, in the rearward bracket (the one that failed), the glue that remained in the bracket was brittle and flakey, and when I poked at it with a screwdriver, it crumbled instantly. That leads me to think that something which adheres well but can flex a bit might be preferred. It also makes me wonder if a priming agent will be needed since the bracket already has a bunch of the old flakey goop still in it, and it's a pretty tight area to attempt to scour it out.
Noting that the TSB from Hyundai suggests using that 3M compound (and it really is a compound: it is a two part adhesive, according to www.acuraworld.com), makes me wonder if it wasn't mixed correctly at the factory, since one bracket held and the other failed in the same conditions.
Thanks!
nothermark wrote:

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Definitely clean out the old glue. If you don't then the old glue will fail again. If it's a 2 part it sounds like a urethane.
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