Re: 0W30/0W40 Oil, what's the difference?

(BuddyWh) wrote:

Well, we've all done it :-).

<snip>
Interesting, TFT.
This debate has certainly now made me go off and take a look at the specs for oils. Here, a 4 litre can of Mobil 1 retails for around 30 ( = about 45 USD think). As a Trooper oil change uses the best part of two of these at 4.5k miles, it ain't cheap! I've enquired about buying it in bulk, and that's not much better :-(.
So, as Huw suggests, I'm looking at a cheaper alternative.
Paul C.
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hedydd[nospam]@tiscali.co.uk (Huw) wrote:

It's used as a shopping car once or twice a week, a tow vehicle for a fair-sized caravan several times a year, and mud plugging/Green Laning several times a year. Annual mileage is only about 8k now.
I've printed of the list in the WHNET site, and will have it when I go shopping :-).
Paul C.
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One is slightly thinner than the other at engine operating temperature, all other things being equal, which is not necessarily a bad thing, nor a good thing for that matter, depending on where you are and what is needed by an engine. All other things are seldom equal though, and in the case of Mobil 1 oils of these two grades, then the 0w/40 is a superior formulation [according to the higher 'standards' met by it] even disregarding its viscosity rating. Just taking the viscosity rating into account then perhaps the 0w/40 would be most suitable for the V6 Isuzu engine, but he didn't ask that, did he? Though he did ask whether he would be better reverting to a 5w/30, to which I would answer, probably not. He also asked how long he should run it, to which I would say 'as long as it says he should in TFM'. The manual probably does not mention a 0w oil but it is quite acceptable and although it appears a bit thin out of the bottle, in fact it provides better protection than a heavier oil. The only proviso is that if the engine is already worn, then there is the possibility of increased oil consumption and lower oil pressure when starting from cold. The lower pressure is not a worry because the oil gets where it is meant to go easier and faster but the consumption might be a concern and, if high, would be the prime indicator for reverting to a heavier oil such as a 15w/40 more suitable for higher clearances.
There you are, clear as mud and in somewhat more than a nutshell:-)
Huw
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On Sun, 22 Jun 2003 09:41 +0100 (BST), snipped-for-privacy@cix.co.uk (Paul Cohen) wrote:

My sympathies, Paul. Not sure where you are located, but here in Porter, Texas, a suburb North of Houston I get my oil changed at a WalMart. Cost of basic oil change with ANY synthetic, $28.95. I use M1 and a standard Fram filter. The oil is changed in my '99 Trooper every 3750 miles and in my wife's Ford+ every 3000 miles.
If I were to do it myself it would cost about $25, and I would have to dispose of the drained oil.
Max
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(Max Tindell) wrote:

Hardly. Most of it is refined and blended locally for local markets. By "local", I mean usually in Europe for Europe. The exceptions tend to be low volume high value products which return a high profit margin. When volumes rise sufficiently, the blending and packaging tends to be moved to where the market is. Basically, the brands will charge what they can get away with. Go just over the Channel and you will find oil substantially cheaper, for no good reason.
Huw
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On Tue, 24 Jun 2003 11:09:04 -0500, Max Tindell

You have to pay??? man, that is _not_ right! Out here in El Paso I just take old oil back to PepBoys and they accept it with no charge!
I thought that was federal law. Hard to believe El Paso could be so progressive, but then we also have no smoking in any public establishment now.
Go figure...
BuddyWh

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Well... it's Texas state law, not federal law. The community, though, has to certify collection centers and in order for them to collect state funds. Once you find one, you can dispose of oil for free, many with quantity limits though.
Here's a list of centers in Austin... might be kind of far from you but you get an idea of what businesses would do it in your town.
http://theenvironmentaldirectory.com/PDFs/OilRecyclingNet.pdf
Good Luck.. BuddyWh
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Thanks for this and the previous response. I am sure you are correct. Whoever owned the local O'Reillys used to take it free of charge, but stopped doing it. It has been years since I changed engine oil myself, but I am pretty sure that at the time some charged. But then, memory is the second thing that goes. I can't remember what goes first.
At the price WM charges it isn't worth the four dollars savings. I geth their basic service, and tend all the other fluid checks, tires, etc. myself.
Max
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0W40, so my Trooper gets one oil change /year. But it uses a fair amount during the year so the oil doesn't get too 'old'..
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madiba

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I guess its a long way from those North Sea oil fields.. :-/
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madiba

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(madiba) wrote:

Indeed :-((.
Paul C.
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Mainly as an extra cost option after the initial limited five year powertrain warranty last time I looked.
Effectively, that is the cars' life to

Poor quality and excessive fuel consumption together with poor dynamics are the most obvious ones. And this is posted by a very rare example of a guy who has owned two consecutive US built cars in the UK from new. They are not Jeeps either.

They do in fact export cars from the US and they invariably bomb. The Ford Cougar and Explorer and the Chevrolet Blaser come to mind as recent attempts which failed dismally. European manufacturers also buy US companies such as Chrysler and also have US manufacturing or assembly plants. Examples of these are BMW and Mercedes [who also own Chrysler]. The UK is second only to Japan in the amount of capital it has invested in the USA and the balance of trade is hugely in favour of the UK last time I looked.

Yep the high value and skilled labour is utilised overseas to you. The mundane task of assembly is still your province. Beware of complacency if you really believe in free trade, which you don't of course....... witness your protectionist steel policy which flouts international agreements and is solely to protect an inefficient, high cost dinasaur industry.

I would not disagree with this.
Huw
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wrote in message

Many more big snips of quite banal answers and comments.

Yes but api and ILSAC certified oils are invariably the lowest acceptable standard of oil for current production vehicles. They do not set higher minimum standards for higher performance levels. Other standards, from other standard setters, current at any time are almost invariably higher or superior to API. You know this, so why make an arse of yourself?

That is not always the case. You concentrate on only on API standards, and yes they are 'API' standards because ILSAC use a diffent rating structure although they are now substantially equivelent and ILSAC has licenced GF3 to be known as API SL. Also the starburst is applicable to one but not the other. Do stop making a complete idiot of yourself. Many other standard setting bodies run a number of standards simultaneously because they grade oils on higher performance criteria on a rising scale. The web site to which I posted a link for makes this quite obvious to anyone with an ounce of wit, but not you it seems.

Yes, some of you are awfully easy to confuse so I do not blame them. Best cater for the lowest common denominator and just use API rating for lowest quality acceptable and then differentiate by whether an oil is dino or synthetic eh? ROTFALOL. snip

How could you possibly draw this conclusion? I have stated that I have run two US built cars. You Sir, appear to be something of a fool.

Did I say "NOTHING"? Please copy the sentence in context because I have no recollection. If I did not say this then there is no contradiction and again you have made an arse of yourself, in big bold capital letters this time.

Nothing trivial like Ford transmissions regularly failing at low milage from one generation to the next then? Nor US built Toyota V6 engines failing due to sludge. Your cars are so perfect according to you, yet a detailed review of American car newsgroups would appear to show shoddy build quality, poor reliability and longevity compared with 'imports'. Something of a contradiction. Your cars are cheap, your fuel and oil is cheap, and spare parts are cheap. All in all it is a cheap industry built on a three year replacement cycle and built in obsolecsence.

Totally nonsensical. The oils are commonly available now or can be formulated or tweaked at short notice. Quite frankly the above paragraph is quite farcical. You are a laugh a minute, you really are.
LOL and you really believe that? Even if they catch up with the technology which has been developed over more than a decade in Europe, which they easily could at short notice I would think, I don't think the US car buying public is sufficiently sophisticated to accept it, having been brainwashed by commercial interests over many decades to think that 3000 miles is a long way. VW found this out a while back and even trying to explain their schedule was found to be counterproductive. If the whole of the US car buying public are like you, then they may as well throw in the towel before they start.

10 year limited power train warranties on major mechanical components only. Only at extra cost or as an incentive on very poorly selling vehicles AFAIK. It is certainly not as common as you like to make out. Please provide a few links to manufacturers that provide a full unlimited factory warranty on main powertrain components for 10 years, if only 100,000 miles, at no extra cost to the consumer.
Huw
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On Sun, 22 Jun 2003 20:38:56 +0100, "Huw"

No need to. You have demonstrated quite adequately how much the bigotted twit you are!
Thanks BuddyWh
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wrote:

Massive big snip.

Left that part in because I expect an answer. You put words in my mouth continually, a favourite tactic of newsgroups dregs, so I expect a clarification. Not likely to get any though am I?
Another big snip to the only comment made by you in the post and I have left the context intact.

Oh but there is certainly a need. I do not particularly disagree with your claim but would like some examples for verification purposes, as would many others I am sure.
You have demonstrated quite adequately how much the

Pot, kettle, black. LOL.
Huw
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On Sun, 22 Jun 2003 21:38:29 +0100, "Huw"

If I thought it would accomplish anything, I might just give a response. I'm sure you have a lot of experience with 'newsgroups dregs', being one yourself and all. As you say... pot, kettle, black

If you want to, you can chase 'em down yourself. I have a Nissan with 60k; Isuzu offers 100k; Kia and/or Hyundai offers 100k. These are all "no additional cost". I'm not in the market for GM/Ford but have heard of them off and on.
No warranty is offered at no cost; all warranties have their costs built in to the price of the vehicle. The fact that extended warranties are purchased at extra cost does not reduce the risks and potential libilities to the offeror.
Your even latching on to the distinction is an attempt to turn aside the argument from the root issue of the subject, also common among newsgroup dregs.

Except I have no where entered into a simple minded slanderous insults denegrating a country, culture and/or people, as have you.
You have nothing of any value to offer as you can only repeat yourself. But I'm sure you'll respond anyway because that to is the nature of newsgroups dregs: a desperate need to to get in the last word.

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BuddyWh wrote:

On the V/6 I don't know how to tell the difference but so far no lifter noise at 100K. Looks more like an old Chevy small block than a SOHC (like my Thunderbird). AS for the oil, I used Kendall for years until I came across a study on the Ford n/g which I saved. As I recall the Valvoline rated better in several categories and my source for Kendall quit stocking it so I switched. I'm in Southern California so we don't get severe extremes of hot and cold.
Frank
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(BuddyWh) wrote:

Oh, that's quite possible - driving style, climate and type of trip will have a big influence on longevity. I've had over 100k on many small cars, but that doesn't mean they are the same warranty proposition as large engined cars.
Paul C.
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