Purchasing replacement electrical connectors?

The 'Help' line of products that some stores carry have some, otherwise it can be junk yard time or individual pin time.

I just individually put a connector on each wire and plug it in according to the colour code. When I do this, I leave about a half inch on the burned plug when I cut it off so I know what colour goes where.

Auto parts stores sell plugs and the crimp connectors for them. They are not expensive. They can be different sized than electronic store plugs though, so I recommend you shop at the auto store. The auto store also have double walled heat shrink that comes with a heat activated waterproofing goop inside and some crimp spade or bullet connectors built like that. You crimp them on, then heat them and the goop seals as the heat shrink shrinks. That works well.

The old pins can be pulled out of the plug by using a mini screwdriver down the back side to push in a tab that releases them. You then can heat shrink the good ones and just change the one burned one if that is the case.

Mike

Ask the parts counter about a pigtail. They like to be lazy and order entire harnesses when they should be ordering just the pigtail.

I've found these folks helpfull in the past.

I was considering this, but wanted a "drop in" modular replacement policy, for the next time a part breaks. Also, I was considering using molex style connectors like you mention, however they would have to be later attached to the replacement part.

If the harness or connecter prices are not reasonable, I'll probably do the above. Maybe solder an intermediate molex style connector between.

Thanks

Thanks. I went today to the Chrysler parts counter. He looked through the computer and couldn't find the replacement connector or harness. Also, I looked through the Chysler connector book he provided. No luck.

I'm wondering if I should just cut the melted connector and bring it in?

Dan,

Do you happen to have the receipt? If so, we can maybe obtain the part number. This would really help as the dealerships here in Massachusetts don't seem to dig through bins without part numbers.

Thanks

I went to another dealership and they still couldn't find the connector. I finally gave up my search and made my own custom connector. I used Anderson Powerpole connectors for the Blower Feed and High speed circuits. These are 12 gauge wires carrying much current. For the other 16 gauge wires, I used a trailer wiring harness connector.

Short leads (about 5") were soldered to the AC Heater Control unit and connectors. The stripped wire was loaded with solder, then the actual pin on the AC Heater Control unit was also loaded with solder. When complete, I soldered/joined the wire to the units pins taking care not to melt the plastic.

The 5 pin fan speed connector was eventually filled with epoxy around the pins. This should prevent any water or other material from accidently grounding them. I wrapped tape around the 5 pin switch connector to make a mold, then simply filled in 10 min epoxy.

Also note, you don't have to replace the entire AC Heater Control unit if your fan speed switch melts! The fan speed switch and 5 pins unbolt from the unit. The replacement is part number 1-05011214AA (2000 Jeep TJ), and is about $20.

Another problem I encountered was the blow motor resistor again. Only the high speed would work for me. When taking it apart, it looked in great shape (no rust new looking), however there was no continuity between the input pins. Maybe the diode was blown? Anyway, I had to order a new one, which ran ~$45.

Thanks DaimlerChrysler!

Hope this helps someone in the future.

Nick

DanFXR wrote:

Just a note here: Water is much maligned and feared but is actually a piss-poor conductor of electricity, especially at the voltage levels present in automobiles. One is much more likely to have problem with corrosion following exposure to water than for the water to actively short circuit power to ground (if it did, it would quickly heat up and vaporize, eliminating the problem). Corrosion on the other hand causes resistance, resistance causes heat, heat melts plastic and causes fires.

It is different in electronics where your are dealing with tiny effects, or in high voltage where you have a better chance of generating an arc, but in low-voltage general power-carrying circuits water isn't an immediate problem.

You are correct, however.....