I don't know what the problem is here. There is absolutely no sound when I turn the key in the ignition. Doesn't seem like a dead battery, there's no sound. It's an 00 Eclipse Coupe. Can anyone tell me what the problem may be? Also, this may be related, but the buttons on the key also have stopped working, may be a dead battery in the key, so I don't think it's related. Can anyone help?
Have you tested the battery to make sure it isn't dead? Jump started maybe? Do the dome lights come on when you open the door, or,if they do, do they go out when you turn the key to "start" Why do you think "It doesn't seem like a dead battery"
When you say "the buttons on the key also stopped working", does that mean the red light on the fob doesn't come on when a key is pressed, or that function doesn't work on the car.
At 4 years, your battery could very well be dead. But before we can help, we need more details.
A very quick and only mildly dangerous test for dead battery condition is to brush a screwdriver or low-gauge (let's say 6 min. gauge across both the positive and negative terminals of the battery) for a moment. If you see a strong spark, the battery could well be good. No spark, dead battery!
If you know something about electrical/electronic systems, you can disconnect it from your car, hook up an appropriate load, and use a multi-meter to figure out whether it holds a charge or not.
If you have money, take the the car or have it towed to a good shop and make them take responsibility for making things work right...
Regards, Mark Gibs>Have you tested the battery to make sure it isn't dead? Jump started maybe?
And risk blowing the battery to pieces. Not recommended. Take the battery out, take it to a battery shop and have it tested. Replace battery if necessary. If you are transporting the battery anywhere make sure you put it on plastic (bags etc). Don't take chances, car batteries contain acid and will eat through clothes etc.
This seems to be a hit and run post from the original poster. No feed back from my other reponse to his original post. But I do agree with Lugnut. Shorting the battery is a dump move. What would happen if the screw driver fused (welded itself to the battery terminals). While I've done this, I really don't recommend it, when I did it, I was pretty sure the battery was dead.
I do NOT do "hit and run posts". I know a lot about electrical/electronic/ computer engineering. Shorting out a car battery with a big (well shielded plastic handle and preferably rubber gloves on hands) screwdriver will not harm the tester. If a strong spark shows, then the battery is not dead.
Amused and disgusted, Mark Gibs>This seems to be a hit and run post from the original poster. No feed back
"This seems to be a hit and run post from the original poster. No feed back from my other response to his original post."
That comment was not indented for you, Mark, it was for "00eclipse00". But that said, if I were inexperienced I wouldn't try the shorting trick on the battery. You also left out the part of the insulation on your post. As well, how is a novice supposed to know what a good spark is and what a bad spark is. If you were to try the screw driver trick on my truck battery, you'd end up throwing the battery out. I clear coated the battery terminals with an epoxy, flat, finish. Makes the terminals look nice and shiny all the time, as well as insulates the lead, and you just about can't see the coating (it's a collector vehicle). I don't want to jump on your abilities, but as you said, it is mildly dangerous, and in the hands of a novice it could be very dangerous.
Merry Christmas
electrical/electronic/
Mark you may know something about computers but you appear to be absolutely ignorant about lead/acid batteries and the dangers they can cause. Car batteries generate hydrogen when being charged and discharged. You know, the stuff that was inside the Hindenberg Zepplin balloon that exploded in the 1930's. Believe me if a battery explodes a big screwdriver with a plastic handle and a pair of rubber gloves will not save you, your face, your eyes....... As a mechanic I have seen the damage an exploding battery can cause from a seconds stupidity. But don't believe me, have a look at the sites below. Particularly have a look at the picture of the exploded battery on the first link.
Fair enough. I apologize for not going into more detail on the safety issues. Messing around with anything capable of electrocuting you (although a 120V A/C wall connection is far more likely to harm you than a 12V DC car or truck battery) is a non-trivial thing to do. So, given your comments, I would now recommend that a person with the car/truck problem described find someone who is familiar and comfortable dealing with electrical systems to figure things out. Many of them can be diagnosed and solved for a lot less than what a shop will charge the owner of the vehicle.
Best regards, Mark "will keep safety issues more >"This seems to be a hit and run post from the original poster. No feed back
You are right. See the apology in my previous post. Were I to need to see if the battery had a charge, I'd connect some serious heavy-duty jumper cables (always in my car's trunk) to it and stand back about 20 feet and make sure there was plenty of ventialation around the battery before shorting out the battery from a distance. Call me paranoid, but I have somehow managed to live over 40 years despite my interest in assorted potentially dangerous technologies.
The Hydrogen + Oxygen explosive combustion problem you describe is very real
-- I did not bother to visit those Web sites you listed, but I would recommend that anyone who fiddles around with car batteries do so. I've seen sparks jump around the battery terminals of various cars I've owned and had to jump start, but have never experienced anything more dangerous than finding out that my car's battery was dead.
In any case, your advice/criticism is sound. If a person doesn't really understand the safety issues involved, the "screwdriver test" can be risky.
Best regards, Mark
Lugnut wrote:
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