97 Maxima SE EGR and Knock Sensor

My 97 Maxima has over 160k miles. Latley, I've been getting the SEL about every 300-400 miles. Codes 0302 (EGR insufficient or excessive flow detected) and 0304 (knock sensor fault or circuit fault). After replacing the EGR valve, I only get the SEL every 1000 miles or so. Still get both codes every time the SEL comes on. Are the two codes somehow coming from the same cause? I checked the knock sensor for resistance at the harness connector and got an open circuit (indicating a bad sensor according to my Haynes manual) so I replaced the knock sensor. Noticed that there is only one wire at the knock sensor end of the wire harness. Is this right? The knock sensor has two prongs, but the connector only has one mating prong and one wire. the opposite end of the wire harness has two wires. What's the second wire for? I get the open circuit reading at the harness end of the connector with both the old part and the new part. I read resistance across the two prongs of both knock sensors. I believe I've replaced a knock sensor that wasn't bad and I'm assuming something is wrong with the wiring. Any help? Thanks.

Reply to
garycarp
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The knock sensor will not activate the light on that car. Even though the connector has two holes, there is only one wire to it. Concentrate on fixing the EGR problem to turn the ligth off for good.

Reply to
John Doe

On Sat, 16 Oct 2004 09:35:10 -0400, "garycarp" graced us with:

Just a thought - when's the last time you had your fuel injectors serviced/checked? If there's a leaky injector, you could be getting extra-rich mixture into the cylinder and goofing up your EGR valve and the knock sensor.

Reply to
filesiteguy

Because the valve wasn't the problem, the passage in the intake manifold is plugged up.

Nope, the knock sensor needs a new connector on the end of the harness most likely and doesn't set the CEL, you just find it when you check for the CEL problem which is a plugged intake manifold passage. Bitch you wasted your money buying an EGR valve it didn't need!

Yes.

The

Again you wasted money buying parts the car didn't need.

Let someone work on it who knows what they are doing?

Reply to
Steve T

Thanks for the suggestions.

Steve, FYI - Every "Mechanic" I've every taken a car to charges at least $50/hr, if they have a clue what they are doing. I get all my parts at a very reasonable price due to a connection with the local auto parts store. I've replaced both half shafts, the EGR valve, the knock sensor, the water pump and both drive belts for under $300. The water pump job alone would cost more than that at any mechanic. I could take my cars to a "mechanic", leve it with them for a week or so, pay them to guess at what's wrong with the car, pay them an arm and leg to replace the parts, pay them the other arm and leg for the parts and still end up with something not working right.

Armed with my Haynes manual and a few tools, I figure I've saved myself a few hundred (or maybe thousand) bucks. If replacing a part on a car with

162,000 miles doesn't fix any problems, at least I know I've got a new part that should last a few more miles.

Thanks!

Reply to
garycarp

Sure they do. I charge $75 a hour.

And you still haven't fixed the problem it has and installed some piss poor quality axles. If someone was mantaining the car right, it would have just needed some boots replaced on the MUCH higher quality original axles long before the axles crapped out. I'm sure you also used some "made in USA" garbage belts which will last 1/3 as long as the originals. Cheap parts aren't a "bargain".

So now you're going to insult all mechanics because you can't fix this simple problem?

LOL, no wonder you can't fix the problem!

Then keep throwing parts at it, wait you know what you're doing because you have a Haynes manual! :-)

Reply to
Steve T

So then, how do you clean the passages in the intake manifold. . . . .without removing it from the engine:)

CD

Reply to
Codifus

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