Re: 306 cd changer wiring

5a?! Its never gonna do 100w with only 5a of juice, and it won't even go near 5a as thats its maximum capacity...

I've got an amp in my car that takes 150a worth of fuses :-P

If its only 5a then the CD changer wire might be acceptable, but do double check it is 5a as it seems a bit small...

Trace the CD changer wire back to where it originates and make sure its still connected, if its possible, get a multimeter (100 and 1 uses that thing!) and test to see if its recieving current. Multimeter's are about a tenner i think from halfords last time i checked...

Thanks for your comments. I will try the site you suggested. > > The bass tube (100W max) has a built in amp and only draws a max of > 5amp. I wouldn't imagine the changer wiring would struggle with such a > small current? > > I have the max power manual for the car and have read a guide on how > to install the power cabling, just trying an easy option! ;-) > > I would of thought the cd changer wiring is already fused too. > At the moment it seems dead, and I have checked all the fuses. > > Rich. > > > first off,
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> > > > secondondly, you must lay a new power cable to the boot, the tiny little > > wire coming from your CD changer won't be thick enough to carry the current > > needed > > > > what active sub is it? you have to find an approriate grounding point and > > make sure you fuse the power cable at the battery end > > > > Might seem alot of work, but this kind of thing has to be done properly to > > get results > > > > > Hi, I was intending to fit an active bass tube to my 306 XSi. > > > > > > Instead of running a whole new set of power cabling and putting a > > > switch somewhere on the dash, I was going to try and use the live from > > > the (un-used) cd changer wiring, which is already there. > > > > > > I have tried testing the wiring with a simple lamp to try and find the > > > live, but with no luck. (Stereo on, ignition on). > > > > > > Does anyone know if you have to do something (like fit a particular > > > fuse etc.) to enable the cd-changer wiring? > > > Or, which of the wires is the live? > > > > > > I really don't want to have to fetch all of the interior up just to > > > add a wire to power the tube. I don't want to have to add a new > > > (probably cheap looking) switch on the dash somewhere either! > > > > > > Cheers, Rich.
Reply to
Oliver
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Yep 5A won't strain any normal changer supply wiring.

Rick.

Reply to
Rick Maninov

He states 100W max which often translates as 100W peak power or worse still peak to peak.

5A equates to about 60W on a 12V system, so if they recommend 5A fusing I'd guess its peak. 150A equates to 1.8Kw and is about all most small car batteries can manage for a few seconds on short circuit ;-) I can't understand the childish fervour to add extra wattage to amps then have to build enormous inefficiency into the speakers to make them accept it. It feeds a market, just financial gain I suppose. I've seen a large room shaken to disco sound levels with 10W RMS into decent efficient speakers.

Rick.

Reply to
Rick Maninov

The problem is that efficient speakers usually require lots of space because they're BIG. That might be a problem in most cars.

Small speakers require more wattage to play as load as bigger ones.

I can easily do that with my Cerwin Vega 1515 speakers, but they're

43x43x135cm (250 liters), nothing I care to carry in my car :)

Sensitivity is 103dB/w.

Reply to
Jens Kr. Kirkebø

Thanks to all for the help.

I will try and trace the changer wiring back but if I can't run the bass tube off that:

Does anyone know where I can find a suitable live source that's only on when the ignition is on? There is obviously going to be one in the steering column off the ignition itself but I don't like the idea of tapping another 5A off that!

Otherwise I will have to fit some tacky switch...

Rich.

P.S. I used to have the tube in another older car and I NEVER had it turned up full! For 5A, 100W peak it kicks a$$!

Reply to
Rich

Look, I know quite a bit about car audio...

I've upgraded the big 3 under the bonnet, got a bigger battery and am currently putting in a split charge system so I can have a leisure battery in the boot...

The amp i've got is a DLS CA10, 1000wrms at 1ohm which is what i've set it up as...on a RE HC15 sub in a 3 chamber 3.5cuft box that is internally and externally ported. It is tuned to about 35hz.

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- there's over 7000 members now, so i guess there's over

7000 "childish" people isn't there...
Reply to
Oliver

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