Three years after having a rebuilt alternator installed the motor would spin but suddenly stop, much like a rat got caught inside the timing belt. After several attempts the motor spins freely and starts fine. The (660 CC) battery does not seem to have enough energy when it happens. I either have to get a jump start or keep trying several times. It shows 14.4vdc at any rpm. But when I step on the gas the headlights get brighter. Thinking it could be a battery problem, I got another battery and this one lasted for a year and a half and could not start from one attempt. What should I check next?
Measuring the open circuit voltage really doesn't tell you anything about the battery's ability to put out sufficient current to crank the engine. Go to an auto parts place/department & buy an inexpensive specific gravity type battery tester. You draw up some battery electrolyte (the liquid in the battery) from each cell & the tester reads the level of charge, cell by cell. Even a cheap battery should last at least 4 years. A battery that's failing will usually show differing levels of charge, cell to cell. If the tester indicates the battery is uniformly undercharged, you've got a charging system problem. It does sound like dirty terminals are the 1st thing to check, though if the battery were installed correctly 1.5 years ago they *should* still be ok. When you get the tester, get a battery terminal cleaner, basically a wire brush tool that has a male end for the cables & a female end for the battery posts (assuming you don't have one of those miserable side terminal setups, in which case a small straight wire brush is probably your best bet). Both tools shouldn't set you back much more than $10. Make sure the cable terminals are also in good condition, not corroded nearly in half etc., especially the positive. It's generally recommended that if a cable end is bad, you replace the entire cable, but I have found if you're careful in how you install them you can go with one of those replacement ends, which is a lot cheaper, especially on a 14 year old car you may not want to put a lot of $$$ into. Once the cables & terminals are nice & clean & back together, it's usually a good idea to coat them with something to help stave off future corrosion, again particularly on the +. You can buy a special spray for this, but Vaseline also works well.
Dan
"Bob M." wrote in message news:sRaEb.587005$Fm2.543686@attbi_s04...
It would pay you to have someone check the starter amp draw if you don't have the equipment. It's quick and easy with an induction gauge. You might even look at a volt meter as someone hits tha starter to see how low it goes. If it's dropping below 10V with a good battery then maybe that starter is bad.
Do check for resistance in the cables, or starter as suggested. Also, next time you buy a battery, check the manufacture date. Sometimes coded A = January, etc., to see not more than six months old. Then use a hyfrometer for a while to check state of charge and re charge if necessary to bring up fully. Recently purchased a new battery of recent manufacture, and after a few months checked with the hyfrometer. Readings were satisfarctory but low, and took several days of slow charging to bring them slowly back up to full charge. Seems my short trips and frequent restarting, and driving with lights on hadn't allowed the alternator to fully charge the battery. Changed my driving habits. Now the charge stays where it should be.
Okay, got a new 7 year battery. Long story. Took it home and charge it HI for four hours. Is that enough? I hope anybody's around to answer one last question. And what great practical advices everyone. The old battery probably dropped under 10V when cranking. But the new battery didn't.
The hydrometer is going to be useful because a fully charged battery looses it's charge when put in the car. I notice the headlights begin to go from bright to dim. The alternator doesn't seem to work. The charge output reads
14.4V at any rpm. If you can follow me, I hit the gas quickly (1200rpm) head lights quickly becomes bright and then I let go quickly (780rpm), the lights quickly dim. But when I keep the foot on the gas for 15 seconds, then let go, the headlights stay bright for 4 seconds then go to dim. And this never happen when I first own this car so many years ago. They normally stay bright. Sorry, I didn't mention it has 260K mi on the odometer.
The Service Manual says to raise engine speed to 2000 rpm & apply a load until battery voltage drops to 12-13.5V and the amperage should read 30 A or above. I don't have an ammeter handy (or am I suppose to use the induction gauge?) AutoZone parts dealer will test for free if I can remove it from the car. If I have to remove it, I'd just avoid the test and have someone replace the alternator altogether.
The hydrometer, a terminal cleaner and cable ends, are on top of the list now that you guys help me out because the cable end is so bad (green stuff growing inside) that it needs a replacement. What's scary is that I notice a few similar model dead on the road (as I whizz by) with almost similar charging problems.
Is it practical to be searching for an ammeter or should I be searching for a new alternator? Thanks. Tibur
Check the starter. See how much current it is drawing when you crank it & compare that with the specs. I suspect it is failing in the direction of drawing too much current.
Make sure the 660CC battery is equal or greater than specs call for. The 14.4vdc reflects that your alternator and regulator are probably working fine. I would suspect the starter, loose/corroded electrical connections. Don't crank that starter for more than 15 or so seconds at at time or you will heat it up and possibly damage it. How is the rat doing? Al
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