So then, what we are talking about is a breach of the head gasket
somewhere in the area of the #1 cylinder, most likely on the timing
belt side, because # 2 cylinder is showing perfect pressure.
I have to tell you also that someone recently bought an s10 from me.
Within a couple days they came crying foul that the heater core was
bad and that coolant was spewing into the cab. The vehicle was
sitting at my mechanic's shop and he had not personally seen the
leak. I went over, started up the truck and sat there with the heat
on high for 45 minutes. It never offered to leak, spew or dribble.
The radiator and overflow were full. I called the buyer on it and he
just stammered all over himself and said the mechanic must have fixed
it. The mechanic had not. It is still not leaking.
So the possibility exists that this rat was trying to visit some kind
of prank on me. He was trying to get money back that he spent on the
truck, I know that much.
SO, yes, it could well be the head gasket. However, as Michael said,
it would have been fouled antifreeze from the exhaust system.
Wouldn't the problem also continue and not be a one time thing
coincidentally the day after my run in with this hoodlum? The exhaust
also does not blow steam, wouldn't that be concurrent with an
antifreeze leak through the engine? Wouldn't I also lose antifreeze,
I mean wouldn't my levels go down?
Elle I believe in logic as well. But I believe there are two threads
here. Regardless, if I do a head gasket and new rings, won't the
problem be resolved so long as the head is not warped? I have put
together all of the parts for less than 80 bucks from various
sources. Good brand name stuff that was sitting in the right places.
Until then, I am going to drive it and see what else it does and I
guess I will call the cops if I catch someone on my property. Either
that or let my hound dog lick them to death. Vicious beast that one.
On the subject of a hoodlum messing with this Accord:
Jack, what exactly is the mechanism you are proposing said
hoodlum used? I am trying to picture this. Turkey baster
filled with anti-freeze dumped into exhaust pipe? Maybe I am
just naive about the tricks du jour to play on people's
cars. Michael? Did said hoodlum even know about this
Accord's problem and that you were troubleshooting it? The
theory seems a little far-fetched to me so far, but I can't
rule it out based on what you wrote. I am not ruling
anything out; just going with what I would most keep an eye
peeled for. Namely, a head gasket failure.
You're looking at the antifreeze in the reservoir and
comparing it to what blew out, right? I am not so sure they
would match in color and consistency.
As for not consistently blowing steam, it may be
intermittent depending on operating conditions.
While you are driving this sad little Accord around, monitor
that reservoir level. Goes high = exhaust gases dumping into
the cooling system. Goes low = blowing out tail pipe. As I
am sure you know.
It is possible the breach is in the block but I would
expect, based strictly on anecdotal reports, that the breach
is indeed the head gasket. Plenty change their head gaskets,
but like you say, watch out for warpage. Plenty also have
their engine head machined as a part of the gasket change.
I could only speculate how clean antifreeze would appear at the tailpipe,
but I'm having trouble figuring how it would get there from the engine. If
it's a fault in the head gasket at the #1 cylinder, the coolant could
certainly find itself into the combustion chamber there. If it does it when
the engine is running, we know that cylinder isn't firing (the injector has
been disabled) and it could certainly be pumped into the exhaust manifold.
There things get sticky. The other cylinders are firing, and glycol is
flammable. I've seen only a couple of seriously bad head gaskets, and
although the exhaust billows clouds of sweet smelling steam I don't recall
that they dripped antifreeze. If the coolant leaked into the cylinder aftert
shutdown it would wind up in the oil instead of the exhaust, since we are
assuming at this point the rings are not sealing well. Any coolant from the
engine would certainly be loaded with soot from the exhaust system, and it
doesn't sound like that is the case.
It could still be a bad head gasket, but I'm not convinced. If Jack hadn't
looked at the tailpipe we would have no other indications, which strikes me
Actually, the hoodlum in question did know about troubleshooting the
accord. He is always at my mechanic's place. He hangs around and
does get into a lot of trouble. He was recently caught skeet shooting
in the parking lot of his brother in law's business. During the day
when all the workers were there. He wasn't even drunk. He really is
not screwed together too tight.
#1. I am comparing the fluid that dripped from the tailpipe with that
in the radiator itself. Copper/Brown, which is the same color as what
is in the overflow bottle. The bright green stuff didn't show until I
backed down the driveway and changed the angle of the tailpipe by
doing so. On the carport the tailpipe is a smidge higher than the
muffler. Backing off of the carport the car drops down to a 25 degree
slope. It was at that point we noticed a puddle right where the
tailpipe had been because the headlights illuminated it. I got out to
inspect and it was bright green antifreeze. Again, how could it be
bright green if what's up front is brown? With the combustion
involved in the engine and the heat through the exhaust manifold it
would certainly not refine it back into brand new quality.
#2. I still haven't ruled out the blown head gasket. Because there is
a lack of pressure. However, I did plug the injector back in because
the car would not run right at all. I forgot to mention that back
several posts. Over 40 mph or so the car would have a very hard and
palpable miss with the injector unplugged. With the injector plugged
in, the car drives well at high speed.
#3. No soapy bubbles in the oil. It still hasn't come back out of the
tail pipe again. It's 13 degrees here right now. If getting from 13
to operating temperature does not induce some kind of change in shape
or pressure, I am not sure what would.
So, these are the things that are consistent: The cylinder appears
dead at idle, but at higher speeds the car does not drive well with
that injector unplugged. At this point I am pulling the plug after
almost every shutdown. It has a small amount of carbon around the end
of the thread head, but the point looks to be burning and is dry. It
is not covered with gas. I haven't checked the cylinder pressure
again, but last time a wet test showed 120# of pressure. Another good
thing is that everytime I get into the car it starts right up. At
least that's something.
I'm thinking I will make observations for a week or so on fluid levels
and performance and see what I find.
Peace and Pleasant Greetings without any obligation to return, accept
or believe in whatever.
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