Which oil in older car?

first of all an '88 is not an "older" car. Secondly if the manual recommends 5w30 there's no reason to use anything else, unless you have an oil pressure problem.

The ticking you hear with the 10W30 is telling me that the 10W30 is too thick when cold to really make your engine happy.

just MHO

nate

Like the owners manual, 5w30 is the right stuff especially if you have frequent cold starts and short trips with a few extended trips thrown in. Unless your engine has oil consumption or pressure problems, just keep using the 5w30 - no reason to change. The quicl lubers want to use the oil they have in bulk. Ford has just revised specs on newer cars which is the oil that dealers stock in bulk RE: less expensive. Profit margin and availability are probably reasons for recommendations by them. If you do not keep a close eye on them, they will install whatever they want even when you specify a particular product.

Lugnut

Ford Motor Company and therefore the owners manual.

How can i tell if they put in the right oil or not? Most places wont let you go in shop area.

Why would you switch to a thicker-pouring oil in the winter?

I can see a couple of ways you could convince them to show you whats happening on the rack. Trade rack for rack?

OR its just a Ford 302 saying "good morning!" like they all do.

:-)

I sure wouldn't use 5w20 EPA-pleasing monkey piss in any engine I cared about, but 5w30 vs 10w30 is a toss-up. No reason for 5w much south of Kansas, though.

Change it yourself. It takes a half hour once you know how and have bought a pair of ramps, and you KNOW you're getting a good filter and oil.

Agreed. I have seen quick oil change places screw it up so often that I wouldn't trust any of them, and my dealer wants $75 to do a fifteen minute job. If there's no chassis lube and you have a screw-on filter and not a canister there is no reason you can't do it in fifteen minutes flat in the driveway with ramps. My wife can.

--scott

I've become rather fond of 15w40 Delo 400 in *EVERYTHING* that needs oil... Rated for diesel service, accepted for "fleet service", and I've never had a problem with it in any of my motors. Might be a tad thick in the mornings if I were in "cold country", but since that's not an issue around here...

Fortunately both Delo and Rotella come in a handy 5W40 synthetic flavor. I'm currently running the dino squeezins in the Studebaker and the synthetic in the Porsche. The Stude will get synthetic after the new engine is broken in.

nate

YEp, I've heard good things about Rotella, also, but since it's not as easily available here as Delo (and when I find it at all, it's in overpriced quarts, rather than reasonably priced gallons like the Delo) I've been, and will likely continue to, sticking with the Delo. I find it mighty handy to be able to do the "whatever it is needs oil - Grab the Delo jug off the shelf and pour" thing, without worrying about "is it the right stuff?" issues. From what I can understand of the label and the various "rated for" listings, it is indeed "the right stuff" for pretty much anything that wants a crankcase full of oil, be it a 3 horse Briggs & Stratton, the little 4-banger in my '82 Mazda 626, the Landlady's 2004 Infinity, a D8 Cat, or anything in between.

Except that it is too viscous to use in many modern engines, especially some overhead cam engines from Ford and Honda, even in a temperate climate. There is a range of suitable viscosity oil for every engine and the range for a particular climate is usually printed in the handbook. Nowadays I have found that 10w/40 and 15w/40-mixed fleet oils meet 90% of my engine needs. Some engines do run on 5w/30 or 0w/40 in my fleet but they are exceptional and a bit of a nuisance as I like to keep things simple.

Those who know me might like to know that I have worn my Land Rover's diesel engine out at last. It has covered around 13000 hours of hard use/short journeys over 22 years. The oil has always become pitch black within a minute of changing it and has always been changed at every 5000 miles. How much longer would it have lasted if I changed it according to oil cleanliness [every 5 miles LOL] or every six months [2500 miles] or every

3000 miles? I don't think it would have made any significant difference. At an average speed of 30mph, 13000 hours is nearly 400,000 miles of motoring, which is what my Toyota Land Cruiser will need to do to run for the same number of operating hours as the old Land Rover. No doubt I could replace crank bearings, pistons, gudgeon pins and rings and get a few more years of use out of the old girl but I think now is the time to retire gracefully as all other components and the body are also a bit tired and worn.

Back to the original topic... :D

Most oil change places recommend running 5w30 oil in the winter, which is better for cold morning startups.

Then switch to 10w30 in the late spring to early summer months because it's less prone to break down with the heat.

My two cents...

Scott

The difference between a 5w/30 and a 10w/30 is very small but if it makes you happy, great.

Huw

gord_truck YOUR ticking sound has nothing to do with oil ---- it's wear on the rocker hold downs --or rocker arm push rod seat ---or a push rod end --- check for wear--- you will need rocker cover gasket

---- and some simple little pices--- could be even a stuck lifter--- myself I would just add A 1/4 COFFEE OF NEW TRNNY FLUID BEFORE CHECK> I have a 1988 Ford 5.0 V8. Owners manual calls for 5w30 oil. The oil

All I said is that's what they recommend... I never said that's what I do! :thumbsup:

Scott

Who are "they" and "most"? I have not heard this and the point of a multigrade is to avoid such foolishness.

Huw