88 Camry: crank pulley bolt has been welded: what to do?

Well, thanks for all the suggestions. Nothing worked trying to get the damper pulley bolt removed. I got a magnifying mirror and light, checked the 19mm pulley bolt real close. No wonder it won't break loose. It has been welded. HOW? WHY??? Makes no sense! Really stupid! @$I(#$&(*&#%%#!!!! You can see that there is NO crack where the bolt joins the pulley/damper...there is a smooth metal fillet all around the bolt! No mechanic would have done this, it would have to have been this way from the factory...so it seems. The fillet material seems to be hard steel. I heated the bolt head as hot as I could get it with MAPP gas, and it had no effect on the fillet material, so it is not some sort of low-temp solder.

So, I presume that the only thing left to do is to get a die grinder and grind the head completely off. Hopefully I can then get the pulley off with my harmonic balancer puller. The big problem then is how to get the bolt stud out? I have plenty of Kroil penetrant left over, would a pipe wrench work?

Can I use any suitable metric bolt, or will I have to get a specific replacement damper pulley bolt from somewhere?

Thanks, Geronimo

Reply to
geronimo
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There are a couple of methods. The only couple that I've ever had any luck with has been using an easyout or, alternatively drilling out the entire channel and using a helicoil insert.

This is a motorcycle page, but it has pretty detailed instructions on the EasyOut trick.

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Reply to
timbirr

Are you sure it is welded to the pulley?! Hard to believe. If so I can imagine how frustrating that must have been considering how hard you have tried to get this thing off. I feel for you man. I can imagine some idiot spot welding the bolt to the pulley for some reason, but a smooth fillet all around just does not make sense. I would get a

2nd opinion to be sure.

dave mc

ger> Well, thanks for all the suggestions. Nothing worked trying to get the

Reply to
davemac

As davemac said .Maybe a spot weld that can possibly be ground out makes sence but as dave said a whole bead? There is a Nut cracking tool, a clamp with anvil point that is tightened on the nut.

Reply to
m Ransley

================================ Perhaps you should just call the wrecking yard now and have the car towed for scrap value -- that's where you're headed if you grind off the head of the crankshaft pulley bolt and then try to remove the stud with a pipe wrench. The crankshaft pulley bolt is attached to the --- *crankshaft* -- is this a part you want to risk damaging and replacing?

------------------- You say nothing worked. Did you try, as suggested earlier, simply driving or towing the car to a good mechanic and have them spin off the bolt with their equipment in a matter of moments? This is the kind of thing mechanics do all day long, every day - it's no problem for them and the cost is minimal.

----------- I find it very difficult to belive the bolt is welded in place. More likely it appears that way because of the bolt construction and the way it is assembled. I can believe the flange is welded to the head - or one piece construction.

1) Buy a new bolt from the dealer. 2) Take the bolt to a mechanic and have them install it for you. (Keep the old bolt as a souvenir) 3) Carry on with your work.
Reply to
Daniel

Thanks for planting doubts, there! I took another look at it, and what I think I am actually seeing is that the bolt head "fillets" into a washer about two in. in diameter diameter. It is probably a bolt with a very wide flange. No, there sure is no way it would have been welded! I have a guy coming over, he has pro mechanic experience. He has a 3/4 in breaker bar and socket. That will probably do the trick. If not, I am going to get the car towed over to his place and let him work on it there. Thanks, Geronimo

Reply to
geronimo

Hi,

These bolts are the very devil to get out. Toyota puts them in with threadlock, Loctite. As others have said, warming the bolt until it is just too hot to touch will help.

The trouble with breaker bars and so forth is that you have to prevent the crankshaft from turning at the time. With a manual you can put it in gear, but on some models there is a cover you can remove to wedge the flywheel, which is better for the gearbox.

With an auto, if this little cover is present so you can get at a converter bolt and wedge it, good, but if the cover is not present (like on mine), you have a big problem. I have heard of people removing the oil pan so the crank could be prevented from turning, in this situation.

I think a pro would use a rattle gun (impact wrench), and warm the bolt head. The biggest baddest impact wrench you can find is good, and remember, you have to tighten it up again later....

Geoff

Reply to
Geoff

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