front end issues like idler arms
------------- Rack and pinion steering has no idler arms - tie rod ends from the steering rack connect directly to the steering knuckle - provides less free play in the steering linkage (and is more compact to accommodate FWD design). Wheel bearings are sealed units, press fit - no periodic maintenance. One is supposed to check the ball joints for wear though, by lifting the front end, placing blocks under the wheels, lowering half way, then prying at ball joints and checking for zero movement. Also, one is supposed to check the tie rod ends for play. I did find, torn rubber seals on the stabilizer bar links and replaced those - parts alone cost around $70 per side IIRC . Also, the rubber sway bar bushings are subject to wear front and rear, but they are easy to replace and inexpensive, parts cost around $20 per set IIRC. All in all, you're correct - the cars are built to last. Primary maintenance items are fluids: brake, trans. engine oil, ps. fluid. Also listed under maintenance items, is checking the subframe mounting bolt torque. You have to remove a plastic underbody cover to access those in front. Also listed under maintenance items, is seat mounting bolt torque - the bolts that hold the seats to the floor. When checking, I found both the frame bolts and seat bolts to be slightly loose. Another often overlooked maintenance item is belt tension - ps. and alternator. Factory recommends a Burroughs belt tension gauge. I suspect most techs just "guesstimate". The alt. belt spec. is something like 120 pounds, and ps. around 80, so I found buying the gauge on eBay worthwhile. Seemed quite high to me, so at 120 +/- 10, I set to 110 lbs. IIRC first time I checked the alt. belt (30k after dealer timing belt replacement) it was around 30-40 pounds too loose. Next time I changed the timing belt myself, tightened the ps. belt as best I could, checked it a few thousand miles later, and it was around
30-40 pounds too loose. Discovered that by prying with a large screwdriver in the elongated adjustment slot, I could move the bolt over far enough to get the right tension. The Burroughs belt tension gauge is too bulky to fit in the small space around the ps. pump. The factory manual shows a diagram of a Burroughs belt tension gauge with an extension that would probably fit, but mine does not have that, so I use a click type belt tension gauge there.