torque converter lock...?

The torque converter lock creates a direct connection between the engine and transmission at highway speeds under light to moderate load, saving fuel by eliminating most of the drag from the fluid-filled torque converter. It's supposed to disengage at lower speeds and under higher loads, but when one gets stuck the engine is 'locked' to the differential, so when the car stops the engine has to stop as well. Normally the torque converter's indirect connection to the engine allows it to keep running when the car is stopped in gear. You'll get more expert advice on what to do from others here, but generally it's not wise to do a power flush when you think the transmission is Gunked Up. Instead, do a couple of drain and fills (or have a dealer do them), replacing the filter screen at least the first time. You want to get the gunk out, not drive it into every little passage and seal in the transmission, which is what a power flush can do.

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That's exactly what I was planning on doing - my "flush" is simply a drain and refill about every other engine oil change (maybe I'll make it during *every* engine oil change from now on). This time I'll use Castrol instead of the Wal-Mart brand. I changed the filter screen and pan gasket around, oh, 120,000 miles or so.

The car doesn't stall *every single time* it stops at a light, so that tells me probably the ignition coil is still pretty good (absolutely no problem at freeway speeds), and also implies that the torque converter lock solenoid works at least sometimes.

So, you think a drain and refill will un-stick the lock?

Is there some tranny fluid additive I should add, to prevent sticking?

My '96 4-banger is up to 140,000 miles.

If I have to play with the lock solenoid, how do I get in there...?

Michael

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I'm afraid I have no definitive answers. Some people have recommended a transmission additive made by Lucas called something like 'Trans Fix'. I haven't used it. Whether or not the problem gets solved by fluid changes and adding something to the transmission depends on whether it's a sticky valve or a failing mechanical component. And I have no idea how to work on a converter lock, I'm afraid.

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Ok, thanks.

I'll do a drain and fill this evening after work, with Castrol. If that doesn't help, I'll try a little Lucas Transmission Fix...

Michael

I have a 91 Camry with 220k miles (today) on it. I pulled a trailer for many years and really burned the transmission bad. The oil was totally black and every mechanic I talked to told me to dump the car. They also told me it would totally fail if I flushed the transmission.

Well, after flushing the transmission 4 times I got all the black oil out and the car has run perfectly for 60K. I checked with a local junk yard and they told me they never sell any Camry transmissions because they never fail. I also had the pan dropped and everything was totally clean.

I would guess your engine dies at stops because the engine idle is too low, or if it happens only when the AC is on ... there is a valve mechanism (had it replaced) that speeds up the engine when the AC is on.

The oil in the distributor is a common problem. In my case, the bearing on the rotor was bad so I bought a rebuilt unit and replaced it. My mechanic friend and I could not understand how the car ran at all because of all the oil in the disturber and the coil case was cracked. The car still ran rough after this repair and I finally got it fixed by running severl cans of Sea Foam down the PVC engin intake.

This car is going to make it to 300K!

Hope this helps

Mel

I just did a drain and refill today. The oil coming out wasn't bright red, as I expected - there was a slight brown tinge to it. I'd thought I'd just done a drain and fill about 10-15k miles ago, so I was a bit surprised the oil was so dirty.

Car seems a bit smoother. Drove it around; no sign of stalling. Then again, usually I get the stalling problem once a month, then it goes away.

Time will tell...

Guess I'll stick to doing a drain and fill every (or every other) engine oil change...

Thanks all

Michael

Good luck. We bought a '95 wagon that had been neglected until last year, when a flush (not drain and fill) was done. It behaves ok when warm, except for slightly rough upshifts, but when cold it really hesitates before going into gear. I believe the previous owner dumped it on me for this reason, as a mechanic told me it was Toast. We had a drain and fill done, with some improvement, and plan on another in the Spring. So we can wish each other luck...