any advise on changing

RUN! RUN! RUN! Run away man, are you mad?

I hope this is not a joke because I just spent a week taking mine apart about 5 times.

What do you want to know?

1st question: Why are you doing this? 2nd question: what are you replacing it with? 3rd question: yes, replace the sock filter

Answer these questions and I'll tell you everything you need to know to save you from a miserable experience.

Jamie

OK, couple things here: Start with the main fuel pump. Check the wiring there, often times the connections to the pump go bare. Make sure this pump is working. Just 'bump' the key each time, meaning, don't let the engine crank more than one or two times. Just bumping the key will work the pump to prime the line and you'll get a start. You'll hear the pump whine a couple seconds after bumping the key.

If you can't hear the main pump, or think it doesn't work, you'll have to drop the pump assembly to bench test. Here is what I did. I did not know how to "jump" the fuses to fire the pump - so I pulled it out.

1- Disconnect negative battery cable 2- Disconnect the fuel line to the pump. Phillips screw driver. 3- Disconnect the pump wiring. 4- Take a box or something and when you unbolt the 3 12mm screws holding the rack, it can rest on the box while you undo the last line. THIS LINE HAS PRESSURE AND SHOULD SPRAY GAS. 5- I use an impact wrench to CAREFULLY loosen the bolt. I only BUMP the bolt about 1 SECOND and get the drill away in case of spark. I've done this a dozen times - no problems. 6- After the spray stops, use your hand to unscrew the bolt. Remove the assembly.

You can now bench test the pump or replace if necessary. I grabbed a replacement pump for $35 at the junkyard. Look for the OEM style with clip on connectors. The bolt on style might be another year or aftermarket.

If you insist on removing the in-tank assembly, I'll tell you how. first, I highly recommend you try jumping wires to see if the pump is working.

Your car should start and idle well even with the in tank assembly disconnected.

Jamie

The car has 245,000 miles and don't think it has been changed. I am having starting problems and stalling. Was thinking of changing both pumps and the relay. I have an aftermarket pump that says it will fit my car and some others like Audi etc.

Just be sure you replace the main pump (if it's failed/failing) and the main filter. If you can get the car running, remove the gas cap and put your ear beside the opening. if you can hear the in-tank pump running - i'd leave the in-tank assembly alone.

It's just a job that becomes a pain in the butt the first time. It's tight working space and the first time is VERY awkward.

If you get into it, remember 3 key tips, besides the obvious: FIRE.

Tip 1: Remove the large gas filler hose from the sending unit and crawl under the car. Shove a short stick from the ground, up into this hose. It will keep it face down and out of your way. You must get this hose away to remove the assembly.

Tip 2: The rubber seal around the tank unit will come out around the assembly. When you put the assembly back in the tank - put the large rubber seal on the TANK opening and NOT the assembly. With the rubber seal inside the tank opening, smear the assembly with vaseline (petroleum jelly) to ease it back in.

Tip 3: mark how the assembly fits in the tank. The intake of the pump needs to be all the way at the bottom of the tank to be accurate. This puts the vent tube at 12 O'clock. But, I had to insert the assembly in at an angle, then rotate the thing clockwise to position it right.

Like I said, I can give you step by step instructions - but when you're crammed in a trunk, not much space for your hands, breathing gas, fighting hoses in the way, one hand on the assembly and the other trying to keep the tank seal straight -- it QUICKLY becomes a nightmare.

Jamie